I was trying to see if I could stop my fan from wobbling. After loosening the 2 phillips screws I twisted the upper housing slightly and the complete fan came loose(except for the wires). I just want to put the fan back up and tighten what ever needs to be tightened in order to keep it from wobbling. Is there a procedure for rehanging the fan?

For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

You got me wondering about a fan I have with an enclosed bowl-like light fixture (I don't know how closely this resembles your model, but bulb access is not immediately obvious on it either). I looked on top of the light section and found a #2 Phillips screw on the top plate of the light fixture near the rim. It seems likely that loosening or removing it will let the bowl come out at the bottom of the fixture so you can get at the bulb. You will probably need a short-handled screwdriver to get in under the motor housing. There are also three #2 Phillips screws going into the side of the cylindrical section below the fan blades at the bottom; this section has the fan and light chain-operated switches attached to it. Those probably attach the entire light fixture to the rest of the fan.

It is entirely possible that the typical 3 screws that hold the blades to the fan arms have loosened up over the years. I would take a screw driver and tighten them. If they loosen they will sag at the ends and touch any frame under them.

Remove the switch housing from the fan with a Phillips screwdriver. Depending on the model, there are either two attaching screws on the base of the switch housing, or three screws around the upper rim of the housing. Once the screws have been removed, unscrew the brass finial surrounding the chain on the outside of the switch housing and pull the chain through to detach the housing from the fan.
Insert a thin flat headed screwdriver into the slot next to each wire; twist the screwdriver and pull the soldered ends of the wires out. If the wires are connected to the terminals with screws, undo the screw a few turns and pull the terminals out from under the screw heads. Undo the two screws holding the switch to the fan and remove it.

Take the old switch to the nearest electrical or home improvement outlet and buy an identical replacement part. If there are two similar switches and you're not sure which is the right one, describe the fan to a sales assistant and tell him how many operating speeds it's equipped with.

ceiling light

TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10

REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.

INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)

Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.

Turn off the circuit breaker supplying power to the ceiling fan. The circuit breaker is in your home electrical box and may control more than just the ceiling fan. Place a stepladder under the Hampton Bay fan.

Remove the light bulbs and light covers from the fixture, if you have a light assembly on your ceiling fan. Remove the screws securing the light assembly housing to the fan with a Phillips screwdriver. Lower the light assembly, and hold it in one hand.

Twist counterclockwise the wire nuts securing the wires for the ceiling fan and light assembly, using your free hand to separate the wires. Lower the light assembly from the fan and set it in a safe place.

Turn the screws securing the fan blades to the unit with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the blades from the fan and set them aside. Find the screws securing the canopy to the ceiling mounting plate. Loosen the screws two complete revolutions. Turn the canopy counterclockwise and unhook it from the screws. Slide the canopy over the fan motor housing and away from the fan.

Ask a helper to hold the fan motor housing if you have a Hampton Bay fan with a down rod. Slide the canopy over the down rod until it rests on top of the motor housing. Disconnect the fan wires from the ceiling wires, twisting the plastic wire caps counterclockwise. Slide the hangar ball, at the top of the down rod, out of the mounting bracket. Slide the canopy over the top of the down rod to remove it from the fan.

Regards

first you will need a ladder and a screwdriver/phillips a couple wire nuts or electrical tape.at the "top" of the fan you will see a bowl shaped cover it will have usually no more than two screws in it..loosen or remove those screws to access the fan hanger inside.once you get that far inside you will see several wires .undo each wire seperatly and cover with a wire nut or electrical tape(please make sure your power is off to that circuit) once you have unhooked all the wires from the fan and secured them out of the way. lift the fan out of the hanger itself (sometimes it is easier to remove each blade from the motor housing before removing the fan from its hanger ) those screws can be found at the base of each blade on the motor housing..If you are moving or adding a cieling light be sure to remove both parts of the fan hanger..the second part will still be attached to the cieling..usually two screws holding it into place..if just replaacing the fan,,you can sometimes leave the second part there and hang the new fan with it..

look carefully there are screws somtimes with a grommet or paint as these were built in factorys all over the world and are very inconsistent if you rrally cant find screws and it will twist it is always left

left is loose right is tight
lefty loosy righty tighty lol

my grandad taught me that one i always remember

Here some toubleshooting:

Problem 1. Fan will not start.
Probable Cause
1. Fuse or circuit breaker blown.
2. Loose power line connections to the fan, or loose wire connections in the switch housing.
3. Reversing switch in neutral position.

Suggested Remedy
1. Check main and branch circuit fuses or circuit breakers.
2. Check line wire connections to fan and switch wire connections in the switch housing.
3. Make sure reversing switch position is all the way to one side.

WARNING: Make sure main power is turned off.

Problem 2. Fan sounds noisy.
Probable Cause
1. Blades not attached to fan.
2. Loose screws in motor housing.
3. Screws securing fan blade flanges to motor hub are loose.
4. Switch housing binding against the blade hub.
5. Wire connectors inside switch housing rattling.
6. Screws holding blades to flanges are loose.

Suggested Remedy
1. Attach blades to fan before operating.
2. Check to make sure all screws in motor housing are snug (not over-tight).
3. Check to make sure the screws which attach the fan flanges to the motor hub are tight.
4. Check to make sure that the switch housing does not bind against the blade hub.
5. Check to make sure wire connectors in switch housing are not rattling against each other or against the interior wall of the witch housing.
6. Tighten screws securely.

WARNING: Make sure main power is turned off.

Problem 3. Fan wobbles
Probable Cause
1. Setscrew in motor coupling is loose.
2. Setscrew in the hanger ball/downrod assembly is loose.
3. Screws securing fan blade flanges to motor hub are loose.
4. Fan blade flanges not seated properly.
5. Hanger bracket and/or outlet box is not securely fastened.
6. Fan blades could be out of balance.

Suggested Remedy
1. Tighten the setscrew in the motor coupling.
2. Tighten the setscrew in the hanger ball/downrod assembly.
3. Check to be sure screws which attach the fan blade to motor hub are tight.
4. Check to be sure the fan blade flanges seat firmly and uniformly to the surface of the motor hub. If flanges are seated incorrectly, loosen the flange screws and retighten.
5. Tighten the hanger bracket screws to the outlet box, and/or secure outlet box.
6. Interchanging an adjacent (side-by-side) blade pair can redistribute the weight and result in smoother operation.

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY TURN OFF POWER AT FUSE BOX OR CIRCUIT BREAKER BEFORE TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR FAN!!!

Hope helps.

Unscrew the housing screws. Take a piece of paper towel saturated with denatured alcohol and twist the towel, blot up ink

should be a set of screws around the outer edge, loosen while holding the globe, some globes if there are no screws twist off, be very careful.