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Posted on Aug 06, 2017
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Whole house fan only runs at low speed, even though toggle has high setting, which used to work. Think i have to replace the toggle, but don't know which type to get; it has hi, off, lo positions. single red wire connects to center of 5 contacts; runs to terminal of timer and connects to load. can't read markings on the toggle. can you advise on type of toggle to get to replace? thanks

1 Answer

Larry Blais

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  • Master 800 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 06, 2018
Larry Blais
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Joined: Aug 25, 2018
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Hi. It will be easier if you contact GRAINGER direct. They carry all Dayton products and parts as well. Even if the part is discontinued or superseded, they can get it. I hope this helps.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1476 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 12, 2006

SOURCE: 3 speed Hunter Fan only has 2 speeds

Assuming that the unit was wired properly from the factory and without being able to look at the switch I would have to agree that the switch is bad. The different speeds are obtained by having a different winding for each speed. If the unit was wired properly at the factory and never had three different speeds then the switch is not rotating between all the contacts. The switch should only be a couple of dollars and would certainly be a cheap solution to try. You can check the existing switch by removing it from the circuit completely and checking the continuity with a DMM from the input to each output as you switch it. Continuity should move from one to two to three. If not the switch is bad. If the switch checks out OK then you have a bad winding in the fan and probably need a new unit. Good luck.

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Anonymous

  • 178 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 16, 2008

SOURCE: HI speed on my Hampton Bay ceiling Fan.

If you are looking to lower your fan speed, I suggest getting an adjustable wall switch that will limit the current to the settings. I have the same situation, I myself didn't do it but I know it is possible. In my bedroom, I have my ceiling fan wired to a turn knob switch, a dimmer so to speak, that limits the elctrical current, thus slowing the rpm's of the fan blades.

Anonymous

  • 75 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2008

SOURCE: Whole house fan does not draw air

capacitor is worned out so pl change the condensor and u ll find the difference out lot of air moving around u

Anonymous

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2009

SOURCE: New Hampton Bay Ceiling fan - runs only in clockwise direction

By using the "switch" to change direction I assume you mean the small slide switch on the side of the fan housing. What you have done is correct and would not affect this switch. The switch is probably bad and you need to return the fan. Suggestion: if the switch is on the housing of the light kit and the light kit connects to the fan with a plug, you are in luck. Go get another fan, swap the light kits and return the fan. Saves you a lot of work. Good luck!

Anonymous

  • 462 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2009

SOURCE: RV AC, how to wire fan (blower) motor to capacitor.

You almost have it Look closer at the run capacitor. It has Herm, this is for the compressor, Com or C and F or Fan.

1 of your power wires is the fan speed so connect them accordingly usually black is hi, blue med, & red is low. You are "feeding" voltage to the selector switch on 1 side and coming out to the fan motor speeds.

Next you have a "Common" wire on your fan motor (this means its Common to all the other connections inside the fan motor to me. It is usually white. Connect this to the other line of power usually the Com on the capacitor unless it connects to a strip on the selector switch. But 1 of these 2 places will be the other side of your Power when plugged in. Lastly the brown it is usually the fan capicator only wire and it will connect to the fan "F" terminal on the capicator this terminal will not have any other wires connected to it.

This should make you a happy camper. Please rate me accordingly and good luck.

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Why will my GE Zoneline 2100 work on high cool and high heat settings, but on low cool and low heat the fan won't run.

I don’t believe the remote tstat accepts those functions to change the fan speed versus using the on board controls. Try to change the fan speed while using the on board controls and when you have that setup then go back and change it to remote tstat setting.
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Fan only wobbles on high....recently 'bumped'

Check all your screws especially the set screw at top of fan that goes into rod. Blades could be warped from the water. Ball of fan not set in bracket correctly. When your buying a fan, look for blade pitch.13 degree or better is best. You shouldn't have to use the fan on high unless it's a low-end fan with a low blade pitch. It's costing you more money to run the fan on high. Sorry to get so preachy, I'm a fan dealer .
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NEED TO WIRE A OIL FURNACE FAN FOR LOW SPEED IN HEAT AND HIGH SPEED IN COOL

Okay, I've got an answer for you.

If you get a Fan Control Relay that is DPDT, I think you can wire the Low Speed of a two-speed motor to the first N.O. contact, for Heat.

When the Relay trips, the N.O. contact will close, and the fan will run on low.

If it's a two-speed fan, these fans have two windings, the first for low, the second for medium, and both for High.

Wire both windings to the N.C. contact on the second half of the relay.

That way when the temperature drops below your setpoint, both fan windings will be energized and the fan will go nuts.

Of course, this means the fan will NEVER shut off.

And I still don't know why you need high speed in the Cool setting, when your thermostat isn't kicking the Relay.
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My 2000 vw beetle has a problem with the a/c. I just replaced the cooling fans and now the a/c will run for a while then blow the fuse. It has already melted the fuse box where the fuse plugs in. I pulled...

Yes! I almost sure
I know what is grounding or Why????
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As this coil works with static energy, once broken, the voltage gets through the compressor body.
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Fan will not run on high. Compressor runs fine but the fan will not run on high. Works fine on low and med.

It's the mode switch contactors for the high setting just overview the wiring of the high cool or high fan contactors if it's not there check all leads for the high fan or high cool circuitry.
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Vornado heater doesn't work on high setting but only at low setting

Dust on the inside of the unit can cause the overload switch to shut many vornados down. Blowing the dust out of the unit with compressed air or a blower may help.

Another problem that causes vornados to stop working (light on - no heat no fan) is when one of the bearings starts to go bad in the unit. This causes the fan to be slower and less effective and the unit’s inability to move the heat away from the thermal overload switch again causes it to shut down.

Though you could remove the front and rear bearings and try to get replacements if it's even replaceable ... Once the bearing starts to go bad there is little that can be done ... HOWEVER, here is one solution to get more life out of the unit.

First, use a blower to blow all the dust out of the unit.
Then, because it is typically the front bearing that goes bad first, lay the vornado on it’s back (so the unit would be blowing air up toward the ceiling), this will relieve the front bearing somewhat and rely more on the rear bearing which tends to last longer.

The vornados I’ve had are all thermistor units ... that is, they don’t just turn on and off when the set temp is reached but in fact slow themselves down (both heat and fan) to keep some level of air circulation in the room. This is a good thing by the way.
There are usually two toggle switches .... one is a heat switch - usually Low & High .... the other is the thermistor switch (this sometimes is labeled “fan”) - usually Auto & High.

Once the unit is on its back ... Now, change the settings as follows:
Turn the Heat switch to LOW
Turn the Fan switch to HIGH
Turn the dial (with the temperature in degrees on it) to the lowest setting - which is somewhere around 60’ish.

Now turn the unit on and it should stay working.
Three things that could cause it to turn back off ...
You turn the Fan switch back to Auto.
You turn the Heat switch back to High
You turn the temperature selection dial too high ... though, you can cautiously turn the dial up a few degrees at a time ... the unit will start shutting down again when you set the temp too high ... then just dial it back down ... unplug for a couple minutes, then turn back on.

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Shutters closing while running

The shutters should be gravity closed, which means they are counter weighted just enough to close with no air flow...  when the fan starts, it will create a slight pressure differential across the shutters - when that pressure overcomes the counter weight, the shutters should open...  I assume you open windows and/or doors when the fan runs...
I would check for the following items: a) (unlikely) check to see if the counter weight is adjustable, if so, it may be slipping and needs reset.. I think this is unlikely as I think most shutters do not have adjustable counter weights -- check last)
b) check your attic vents to the outside -- the air being blown into the attic must escape to the outside world, otherwise it will build up pressure and the airflow will drop or stop altogether -- this sounds like what is occurring, at slow speeds, there is insufficient airflow to open the dampers, at high speeds, they open long enough for the pressure to build up and then they close as the air flow diminishes
c)  have you replaced windows, caulked up windows, made any modifications to reduce the flow of air into the living areas -- air must enter the house just as air must leave the attic (assumes you don't open windows or doors)
d)  if you have a fireplace, check to make sure some animal or other hasn't plugged up the chimney -- if the house is tight, the attic fan will pull air from the chimney unless it is blocked
hope this helps...
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