No power , no lights on controler. Had battery checked and voltage is good . worked a few days ago . brought to home shop , charged seemed to be OK, next morning , no work. Is there a hidden circuit breaker ?

Lead acid batteries don't like being discharged flat, and it could now be damaged and unable to hold a charge. It does sound as though the voltage regulator part of the alternator is allowing discharge to ground when it should not. You would seem to have a good warranty claim on the battery given they did check the alternator and pronounce it OK.

The charging system in your vehicle is computer controlled ,checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's should alway's be the first step in the diagnostic process ,testing for B+ voltage at the wiring connections at the alternator would be the next step if no DTC'S are stored . The single heavy gage wire on the back should have Battery voltage , the wire's at the connector ,three out of the four should have B+ voltage an the # 3 wire is the control circuit from the ECM - engine control module . Four fuse's supply B+ voltage to these connections . 10 amp gauge #1 , 7.5 amp gauge #2 , 7.5 amp ALT-S an 120 amp ALT fuse. If any one of these is blown the alternator won't charge . If you know nothing of automotive electrical system testing ,your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop.

Sounds like a bad alternator. A fuse is either good, or bad, not works, then don't.

sound like might have a prooblem with the charging system. if the altenator is not charging the battery while driving then when the battery voltage gets too low (prob around 10volts) then the computers will shut down, then when jump started it gets some power back, and when the battery is charged will all work fine for a while.
does your model have the voltage gauge in the dash? should be over 12 volts when engine running, 14volts is a good charge rate. and should stay up above 12 all the time, with lights on air condon etc...
and altenators can be funny, work sometimes, and not atother times,

Well this post was done a long time ago, seems like you have a bad battery. you should see 24vdc. The batteries are in parallel so it adds up to 24 volts.If one of them is dead it would only show 12vdc.

SOUND LIKE DEAD BATTERY OR LOOSE OR CORRODED BATTERY CABLES.HAVE BATTERY TESTED USING A DIGITAL VOLT METER.BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 12.5 VOLTS IF NOT HAVE BATTERY CHECKED AND CHARGED.IF BATTERY WAS NO GOOD.HAVE ALTERNATOR CHECKED OUT.TO MAKE SURE IT IS CHARGING BATTERY.TO KEEP FROM LOCKING OUT YOUR RADIO.TURN IT OFF BEFORE DISCONNECTING BATTERY CABLES.

check battery voltage when you turn off car. it should be 12.5 volts.if drops 11.0 volts the battery is got a weak cell in it.i bought a sears die hard battery it last 2 years the battery had a defect .it had a bad cell it short out the battery.check alternator wires for defects.

sounds like alt. wasn't charging/or bat wasn't taking charge. take bat to have tasted. if its ok. suspect the alt. with a good bat. the voltage at terminals when running with lights on should be 12-14.5.

They can check the battery and the charging system for starters. Fully charged battery,clean cables. then do a load test on the battery. If it didn't pass the test replace it and check the charging system.
Charging system easy to check , Put voltmeter on battery terminals and monitor vehicle's voltage with and wthout accessories on. should be between 13.5 to 14.5v . Before condemning alternator inspect wiring behind alternator ...if corroded replace then retest.
If voltage is with range then the problem is in the power distribution compartment/ relay, or either is a ground all those items share.