Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.
Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.
The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.
On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.
By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.
I
Reprogram the control board for LC30C spec, and buy an sanitizer pump kit for about $500.00, or spend the money and install the breaker and wire it as per NSF/CSA spec. Not sure if your insureance will appreciate modifications to an approved unit, if there is a fire related to your mods.
I'm sorry, but I doubt you will find someone willing to assist you in this.
What you are proposing will violate the NSF Certificate for sanitation and could pose health problems for users of the ware cleaned by this machine.
I would suggest the machine be installed correctly
I service these units all the time---im a tech for hobart.Do you want the wash temp to be lower?im assuming you disconnected the booster tank for 180 degrees so it wouldnt trip your breaker.If you disconnect the wash tank thermistor the wash tank heat will only get to the temp that your hot water heater is supplying.Let me know
639 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×