Zoom mechanism is broken, time to buy a new camera.
Or you can try this, not sure if it pertains to your issue though
The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make
sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes
(especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of
warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be
considered for disposal if unrepaired:
Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the
camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in
(preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If
using rechargeables, and they're more than a year old, consider
purchasing new rechargeable batteries as they may not be providing sufficient
power to startup the camera. If new batteries didn't work, try pressing
and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.
Fix #2: If the camera's batteries ran
down completely while the its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens
error or not start properly when new batteries are installed. Remove the
memory card and keep it removed, then install the new batteries. When
you turn the camera on with the card removed it may come back to life, as this
triggers a reset in some cameras. Error E30 (for older Canon's) means that you
don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the SD card and turn
it on one last time
Fix #3: Insert the cameras
Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable
ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus
extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This
extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be
jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself,
consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and
7 as a means to provide extra power to help to these fixes. But note
that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may
damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER
tapping the camera.
Fix #4: Place the camera flat
on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the
shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on
button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens
is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins back into their
slots.
Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps
around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or
grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include
blowing with a hair dryer in "no heat" setting, or sucking the gaps with a
vacuum (careful with this one). Some people also have actually used a "Shop Vac"
with this fix to help extend a retracted lens.
Now we're entering into the realm of potentially
damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here,
so take care when conducting the following two fixes.
Fix #5a: If you actually do notice
sand particles stuck in the gaps around the lens barrel, and blowing air
does not help to dislodge them, consider using a thin piece of paper or a
sewing needle to help dislodge them. Pay particular care not to scratch
your lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend probing too deeply
around the lens barrel with the paper (don't go more than a 1 cm or 1/2 in) .
Particularly I do not recommend probing deeply around the most outer (largest)
lens barrel gap, as you may dislodge the lens barrel dust gasket that's located
just inside of that gap.
Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the
padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any
particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting
a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have
reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some obvious potential
for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as
unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.
Fix #6a:
This is a variation of Fix #6, and should be tried if the lens barrels
appears straight (not crooked). In other words, try this if there's no obvious
mechanical damage to the lens barrels that's causing the problem. With the lens
pointed down, try "gently" tapping around the lens barrels with a small
item such as a pencil or a teaspoon. The idea is to try to
dislodge any sand particles that may be jamming the lens barrel stuck.
Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off as you're doing this.
Fix #7: The most extreme of the fixes.
You especially might consider this if the lens barrel appears obviously
damaged, bent, or crooked such as from a fall. Try forcing the lens.
More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other
methods (see the polls in the right column). HOWEVER, there's obviously some
potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include
gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the
power button. Attempt to straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or
twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens
barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap
(note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may
become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that
indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide
slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera. The
following photo illustrates unseated guide pins that would cause a lens error.
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The preview on the LCD when zoomed is OK though. It's only the saved picture that's white, as if gossly over-exposed. Still think the zoom mechanism is broken?
This camera takes CF cards. The effect is the same on different CF cards.
I'm suspecting either that there is a light leak causing fogging when the lens is extended (unlikely!) or the metering/aperture couping is faulty. But I would have expected the latter would mean that non-zoomed pictures would be faulty too.
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