My blade is not square to the table i,e if I make a 90deg cut, it is about 1/16 wider at the top of the board than it is at the bottom. I've lost my owners manual and was wowndereing holw I go about squaring it up. I have a 10 in Makita dual bevel sliding saw. Thanks

bent --blade--arm-//bearings -blade shaft --shim or holding plate and bolt ///arm --shim--washer - bushing -bolt worn or damaged

Hello, yes this saw can be adjusted.
To calibrate the table, use a framing square up against the rear fence and see how the blade tracks. To adjust this: loosen the bolts holding the rear fence down and move the fence until it is square with the blade track and tighten.
To adjust the bevel: use a speed square to check for 90deg and 45deg on the blade. Using the 13mm bolts found at the pivot point on the trunnion you can adjust the 90 and 45 degree angles.

Your piece is not square to the cutting blade and is moving during the cutting process. The direction of the curve tells you which way the piece is moving.

You need to adjust the bandsaw table square to the blade. There's an adjustment nut under the table top that locks it square to the blade. Also make sure all guides and bearings are correctly adjusting so the blade will not deflect when cutting, but follows a true path. Check to be sure the guides under the table are properly adjusted, as well as those on top, and that the blade is properly tensioned.. It could also be a dull blade at fault, I suppose, if all else is correct.
See these setup instructions.
I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Band saws pull to one side on straight cuts, it's a function of the blade torque. My 14" saw pulls to the right. There's nothing you can do to stop this, you have to be aware of it so you account for it on free cuts and know to put your fence on that side so the wood pulls into the fence instead of away from it. Squaring the blade to the table is easier. Do not go by the tilt angle guide. First make absoutely sure all of your blade guides and bearings are properly alligned so they aren't pushing the blade out of line. Use a square to get it close then: using a 4" x 4" block of wood, make a light cut in the wood only deep enough to mark the wood from top to bottom. Turn the block over 180 and try to make a cut in the previous cut mark. If the cuts line up you're there. If you get a V or X you have to make adjustments to the table making sure you tighten the trunion locks tight. I had one of these, it's not a high end saw so don't expect a lot from it.

Make sure the blade is 90 deg vertical to the saw table. Make sure the indicator is set approprately. Raise the blade just enough to clear the table/base. Place a swanson speed square against the fence and blade. Make sure the indicator is at 90 degrees. Here you might want to tilt the square and check that the complete blade is flush against the sqaure as high up as possible. Lay the square back flat on the table and pull the blade toward you as much as possible. The teeth on the blade should ride against the square extented completely out.

Now set the square against the fence with the 45 degree angle coming away from the table and set the blade on the 45 deg mark on the insicator scale.
The blade should touch the square all the way out fully extented.

Or just experiment with some scrap and check

You have a 5/8" diameter arbor. You can use any dado blade that will fit. That said here's a few things to bear in mind.

8" diameter dado stacks are pretty standard for 10" contractor table saws. A dado stack is typically about 13/16" wide at most. It makes sense that the wider your blade is, the more power it takes to cut through the wood.

If you were to use the full width capacity of your Dado stack (13/16") a 10" diameter stack would bog down. A 8" stack has a faster rotation at the cutting edge because of its smaller radius. So, you don't bog down when you're making a wider cut if you use a smaller diameter.

If your machine was really underpowered, you could go down to a 6" stack which would cut your power requirements even more, but limits the depth of cut.

If this post was helpful, please vote. Thanks.

1) Before setting the Miter gauge, check that the blade is straight (parallel) with the slide grooves. Lock a board in the miter gauge and place against the front of the blade, and then the back of the blade. Is the distance EXACTLY the same (it won't matter if the miter gauge isn't straight and square). If not, you'll need to loosen the table and rotate the blade holder to square it up.
2) Now Cut a board in half the flip one side over and place the cut back together. If it isn't straight, the resulting board will have a "dog-leg".
3) Adjust the miter-set-screw until the cuts on the trial board yield a board that comes out straight (or use a Framing square to check).

Hi,
It sounds as though you may be cutting too quickly. Try decreasing the pressure you are applying to the wood.
You could also try tightening the blade more, until it PINGS when you flick it with your finger.(When it's stationary of course)
I'm assuming your guides are adjusted correctly.
JR

Inside the saw, on the end of the trunnion is a stop that is adjustable to zero the saw in to exactly 90 degrees. Either there is sawdust or something accumulated there or it needs to be adjusted. You say you cleaned it out, So you'll need to unplug it an have a look up in there. See how there's a geared piece of steel that moves when you crank the saw over to 45 degrees. Usually there's a bolt or stud with a locking nut on it, either on the trunnion itself or the lower surface of the table top. You need to break the nut loose and screw the bolt in or out to adjust, then crank the saw over to hit it, check for square with a known square, crank it all the way out of the way and readjust, etc. Until you get it right. Make sure to tighten that lock nut when you're done.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!