Have a series of spacers ( some thicker than others), 1 bearing ring & a plastic sleeve the bearing race may go in. I don't know where they go relative to seating the fork into the frame as in which go on top and which go on bottom. Thanks, Russ

If you look at it the spacer will only LOGICALLY go one way. The small side matches the bearing inner race diameter so it will go to the bearing on the right side and another giveway is that the left side spacer is the same diamter as the right side narrow diameter so that would have to go to the bearing so both similar diameter spacer dimensions will go the same way ie to the bearing race.

Honestly - it's just as cost effective to just buy a new cylinder complete from Yamaha - unless you have a lot of porting done to your cylinder. The cylinders are plated and you typically don't bore them - you have them re-sleeved.

I have raced semi-pro for many, many years (AMA District 13, A-class). When I raced 125s (1998-2002) I would usually go through 6 to 8 cylinders per season and I would rebuild the engine after every race (every week). I never bothered getting the worn cylinders resleeved because the sleeves cost almost as much as a new cylinder from Yamaha.

Price out a new cylinder then price out the re-sleeve. You'll see there's only a slight difference. I recall the new cylinders being about $245 and a sleeve was around $225.

Once you get it rebuilt, keep the ring fresh and make sure you run at least 28:1 mix. I raced at 26:1 to get the engines to last. They are single ringers and the piston ring just doesn't last. Yamaha recommends changing the ring every 2.2 hours for maximum output. I couldn't get 2 hours on a motor running 32:1, so I switched to 26:1 for more lubrication and better sealing of the ring. Long story.

I hope this helped.

If you are willing to do it Charles Bronson style , all you need is a hammer and skinny flat blade chisel. Most bearings can be tapped out from the opposite side. Put the chisel through the center of the bearing hole, push the bearing spacer off to the side, hook the chisel onto the inner race of the bearing and tap it out the opposite side of the wheel. When the bearing and spacer fall out, flip the wheel over and tap the other bearing out the other side. Now , place the new bearing in the opening and place the old bearing against it lining up the raises. Only tap on the old bearing (the outer race) when pushing in the new bearing. Tap in the new bearing until the old bearing starts to enter the wheel hub. Now you have to carefully seat the bearing by using the chisel only on the outside race, moving the chisel around the circumference of the outer race to evenly push the bearing down. Be very careful not to slip and punch the seal or damage the actual ball bearings. Flip the wheel over , put the spacer back in, and repeat the procedure till the other bearing is seated enough that the spacer can be moved but does not bind the inner races of the bearings. Work carefully and you will have a permanent repair using only a hammer and a chisel.

What you'll need:

1. Large adjustable wrench and Channelocks.
2. Bearing race driver tool or various size punches.
3. Socket and ratchet set or assorted wrenches.
4. BFH.
5. Lots of rags.
6. New wheel bearings.
7. Wheel bearing grease.
8. New cotter pin.
9. New grease seals.
10. Wheel blocks.
11. Safety glasses.
12. A jack and a pair of jack stands.
13. Rubber gloves (Optional)

1. First remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove it grab it with your Channelocks and work it back and forth until it pops off. Be careful not to crush it as you remove it.
2. Once the cap is off you will see a cotter pin, Remove the cotter pin and remove the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not have a retaining ring.
3. Using your Channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.
4. Now remove the outer wheel bearing and washer and lay it aside.
5. Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle. This may be difficult, but it will come off. Don't worry about hurting the grease seal; we're going to replace it anyway.
6. Now that the rotor or drum is off, use a suitable tool to remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.
7. Using some of the rags wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.
8. Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race.

When both races are out, clean the inside of the hub with some rags. Also make sure the spindle is clean as well. You can even use some carburetor cleaner to do a really good job of cleaning. From this point on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal chips inside the hub.

1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
2. Do the same for the other race.
3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.

Now that everything is nice and clean, let's put the new races and bearings in.

1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
2. Do the same for the other race.
3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.

1. Now that we have the races installed and bearings packed, we can put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel bearing into it. Take the new grease seal and tap it into place, don't bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to help.
2. Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the spindle -- too much is better than too little. If any moisture should happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.
3. Slide the brake rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.
4. Once it's on, grease the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it in.
5. Place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth and then tighten the nut more by hand. This insures that the bearings are seated. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter by hand.
6. Now tighten the nut ¼ turn, no more than 16 foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin. If you have a retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the pin. Never reuse the old cotter pin and make sure you use it.
7. Put a small blob of grease on the inside of the dust cap and tap it into place, being careful not to crush it. Make sure it is fully seated.That's it, you're ready to roll nice and smooth!
   

Push the spacer between the bearings off to one side. Get a chisel or an old screw driver and tap the inner race of the bearing out from the opposite side. Save the spacer. Flip the wheel over and tap out the other side. Grind the outer edge off one of the old bearings and place it over the new bearing. Tap on the old bearing to drive the new bearing into place. You may have to finish the install with a chisel on the outer race. Alternate tapping from side to side being careful not to damage seal. Flip the wheel over put the spacer back into the wheel and tap the new bearing into place so that it barely touches the spacer. The bearings should spin freely, but should not bind (inner races pushing too hard against spacer will cause binding). If you install too tightly reach through the wheel and tap on the opposite bearing only enough to stop the binding. Press in the seals and reinstall the wheel on the bike.

The wheel not being equally spaced under the fender is typical of all Softail motorcycles. They have an "offset" wheel stance. I don't know exactly why but they are designed this way.

The three spacers you are talking about is actually one spacer and two seal races. The two seal races go into the wheel bearing seals on either side of the wheel. This provides a smooth finish for the wheel bearing seals to ride on. The other "spacer" is a bit larger and goes on the belt side of the wheel and the rear brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on the other side. Anytime you take the wheels off your bike, always mark and make a drawing of the positions of the spacers.

Good Luck
Steve

is that the automatic hub ? ... if so leave your email address i'll send you the diagram for it.

Here's the steps....getting some pics for you....hang on a minute or two.

Front Hub Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove steering knuckle.
2. Using a suitable slap hammer, remove wheel hub assembly.
3. Using a suitable bearing press, remove outer bearing, oil seal, outer bearing race and preload spacer.
4. Remove inner oil seal, inner wheel bearing and inner bearing race.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove dust cover (back plate).
To Install:

1. Using a suitable bearing press, install bearing races in steering knuckle.
2. Pack the bearings and hub area with lithium grease.
3. Install inner bearing in steering knuckle.
4. Lubricate lip of NEW inner seal and press seal into knuckle.
5. Install preload spacer into bore.
6. Install outer bearing into bore.
7. Lubricate lip of NEW outer seal and press seal into knuckle.
8. Using an appropriate tool, support inner wheel bearing and press wheel hub into knuckle with a force of 2500kg.
9. Install NEW inner seal.
10. Install knuckle assembly.

if they are the same as the older models.... SKF #6005-2RS Measurements - 25mm ID x 47mm OD x 12mm width . It is often not recommended to remove the bearing and then reinstall it because there is a concern that the bearing could be damaged in its removal. This is because the bearing is installed by the outer race which does not put pressures or impacts on the bearings themselves but in the removal process the bearings are driven out by the inner race which puts a lot of force impact, and stresses on the bearings. If the bearings are the ones that I listed (I believe they probably are), then you may be able to find them at a local automotice parts supplier such as Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or other place, as this size is fairly common. Also, if you have the newer style spacer in the hub, you may need a blind bearing puller because you simply cannot push the spacer over to get to the inner race of the bearing. There is one notch on one side of the spacer, and it is a bit of a PITA to catch the lip of the inner race with a punch or screwdriver. Here is a picture of the newer style spacer that has ribbing on it....,,,

if they are the same as the older models.... SKF #6005-2RS Measurements - 25mm ID x 47mm OD x 12mm width . It is often not recommended to remove the bearing and then reinstall it because there is a concern that the bearing could be damaged in its removal. This is because the bearing is installed by the outer race which does not put pressures or impacts on the bearings themselves but in the removal process the bearings are driven out by the inner race which puts a lot of force impact, and stresses on the bearings. If the bearings are the ones that I listed (I believe they probably are), then you may be able to find them at a local automotice parts supplier such as Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or other place, as this size is fairly common. Also, if you have the newer style spacer in the hub, you may need a blind bearing puller because you simply cannot push the spacer over to get to the inner race of the bearing. There is one notch on one side of the spacer, and it is a bit of a PITA to catch the lip of the inner race with a punch or screwdriver. Here is a picture of the newer style spacer that has ribbing on it....,,,