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go to Dewaltservicenet.com and with your model number you can download a schematic for this tool and also order the parts online. I tried finding them but there are too many jointers listed in the Delta category.
I bought one that didn't work, and ended up just buying a new control board assembly for around $75. It was an easy fix that just required a screw driver and about 10 minutes.
The knives could be dull, you would have to be the judge of that. If the bevel & face are rusty they are probably dull. They can be honed or taken to a sharpening shop.
The outfeed table could also be too high. I usually adjust the knives above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand. Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.
The board could also be convex to start with. To fix that problerm start jointing at the start of the convex part and not at the end of the board.
it usually means you are letting the boards lift slightly at the beginning and the end of the planing process, or you might be letting them enter too fast and push them too fast at the end. a dull blade will cause brown or black areas and smoke as you process them and it will take longer to run them through the planer ususally.
go to Dewaltservicenet.com and under the service locator on the right hand side type in your information. The blade set number that I came up with is 37-658 and they show that as qty 3 in one package.
First, unplug the jointer, then, insure that all the cutters are set to the same height. Raise the outfeed table with a straight piece of wood or a framing square sitting on it and extending over the cutters. Each cutter should just touch the board without raising it. The infeed table is lowered by how deep you want to cut. Always look at the grain of the board you are cutting. Never allow the cutters to strike grain that is running down into the cutters. It will chip out chunks of wood. The grain should be tapering down away from the cutters, back toward you, never toward them.
The tapering you mentioned usually happens when the outfeed table is lower than the cutter tops.
While the final effects of a stone or concrete wall are stunning, the work to make it beautiful is time-consuming and difficult. Tools are very important in masonry work. Having the right tools for a certain job make all the difference. Jointers come in many different sizes and shapes. Learn the various types and how to use them and you can make quick work of a difficult task. Use an e-jointer for narrower spaces between the stones. There is no handle on the e-jointer, making it easier to smooth and shape the joints between the stones. Whenever your hand is closer to the surface, you can exert more control. Get a bead jointer for raised masonry bricks. These jointers come in two sizes, 1/4-inch by 5/16-inch and 3/8-inch by 1/2-inch. They are small, strong, simple tools that can chip off the excess of a joint that is sticking up off the brink. You do not want to make a deep joint between raised bricks. Change your joint tool to a brick masonry mortar joint raker tool if you are making your project from rougher materials, such as adobe brick or split stone. This tool has many more grooves, which will fit in various sized joints. Turn it on the end for narrow joints and use the curved notch for more intricate patterns between the stones. Switch to a grapevine mortar jointer for very clean lines between the bricks. This tool is used primarily for a colonial look, which is even and measured. Your can get this jointer with a wooden handle for a more even grip.
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