My Goodman GDS80703ANA will go through the sequence of starting up but when the gas ignites it shuts down not even 30 seconds into burning what is this? Help Im in Michigan and its still chilly!

Typically it should glow for a full 30 seconds BEFORE power is sent to the gas valve to open. This is even after the 'pre-purge' sequence where the inducer starts and runs for a predetermined amount of time to purge the heat exchanger of any residual gas. The whole sequence can approach 3 minutes or more on some models.

Check all connections on the circuit board before assuming the board is bad.

there should be a flame detector sensor. it is in the flame. this will need to be cleaned with a wire brush or scrapped with something to get the carbon build up off of it.
you will see something that in in the flame area that is kind of charred and black with a wire coming out of it.
this is designed to tell the unit that there is a flame present and if that flame is not there after serveral attempts it will shut it down. because it there was no flame there you would get gas fumes pumped into you house.
you could change it out or usually you can just clean it and it will work fine.

hope this helps
rick

Have you checked the air filter? Also make sure the room air blower turns on to distribute the heat throughout the house.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad igniter what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas.
Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new igniter. I would suggest that you inspect your igniter closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the igniter with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, roll-out switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

NATE, NCCER, PHCC,HVAC Certified Instructor

The sequence of events for furnace operation is -

Fan purge for 30-45 seconds. During this time, a pressure switch is actuated by the running of the purge fan, proving the control board the purge fan is running.

After purge and purge prove, the hot surface ignition and or spark begins. After a few second delay, the gas valve will open. The control board then monitors for flame prove through another sensor located near the burners. If there is no flame within 3-5 seconds, the gas valve closes. It will repeat this process, usually 3 times, before it shuts the system down, which requires a power down of the system to reset.

I have seen trash get into the hose between the purge blower and the purge switch. But you could be having other problems.

The whole assembly must be replaced.

The sequence of operation is -

Combustion fan purges the heat exchanger. A pressure switch verifies combustion air fan is running. Usually a 30-45 second purge before the hot surface ignitor glows, or the spark ignition starts.

Gas valve opens after 10-15 seconds and main burners light. Control board monitors for flame and shuts gas valve after 2-3 seconds if main burner does not light.

If burner does not light, some boards repeat this for 3 tries, then locks out and is reset by cycling power.

Air blower comes on after another 30-45 seconds after main burner ignition.

Times may vary based on the specific controller board. A flow chart and timing sequence should be located somewhere on the unit, usually in the fan compartment.

The first thing to look at is the flame sense rod.
Shut off power to the furnace, remove, clean sensor with steel wool or sandpaper then reinstall the sensor. Reapply power and it should run properly.

Check at the gas valve to see if you are getting power to the terminals after you hear the click shortly before the ignitor stops. If no voltage ...replace the board.
Sequence is

induction fan on, if pressure switch is reading ok condition---->

Ignitor is powered for up to 20 seconds (depends on model) ----->

Gas valve is energized ----> if flame is present everything just works away, if no flame in 3 seconds sequence starts over for set number of tries or continuously (again depending on the model)

Hope this helps

if 23/27 volts is present at gas valve then replace valve but bad valve is not very common usually, its the board.

The board controls the timing