My amana oven won't start, the top burners work and the broiler works. I am trying to get the bottom up to get to the ignitor glow bar. How do I get that bottom piece out, I'm having trouble doing that? Thanks

I HAD THIS SAME PROBLEM THIS WEEK. MY REPAIRMAN TOLD ME THE GLOW BAR IGNITOR ARE BAD TO GO BAD. EVEN IF IT STILL GLOWS IT PROBABLY ISN'T PUTTING OUT ENOUGH GLOW TO OPEN UP THE SAFETY GAS VALVE. I THOUGHT MY PILOT LIGHT MIGHT BE OUT, BUT THEY DON'T EVEN HAVE ONE FOR THE OVEN/BROILER IN THE BOTTOM OF STOVE, BUT IT DID HAVE ONE FOR THE TOP BURNERS.
YOU CAN WATCH SOME YOU TUBE VIDEOS OF HOW TO FIX THE GLOW BAR IGNITOR FOR THE OVEN AND LEARN MORE--HOPE THIS HELPS..

the ignitor is not working its bad,you should see a bright orange glow below the oven base just as when you start the broiler look up at the top of the oven and watch this ignitor glow before ignition,the bottom should do the same,you can also see this from the back side of the range at the base,if you don't use the broiler you can use that ignitor for the oven ignitor as these ignitors are identical,but then you will have no broiler

You gave us good clues in information!-- Thanks!

Most modern gas ovens have a device called a Glow Ignitor to light the burner.
If this ignitor has filed, it will NOT left the gas valve open-- (Good thing, right? :-) )

You say the broiler lights fine-- so let's observe something when the Broiler lights:
Do you see a bright glow near the Broiler burner?
(Usually toward the top rear of the oven--)

Well, you should see a similar bright glowing near the BOTTOM rear of your oven, for the main burner to light off-- If you do NOT see this glowing-- then you need a new ignitor-

You can remove the bottom burner cover, and dig deeper into the repair if you like-
But a new ignitor needs to be exactly like the failed one-- the safety circuit is very fussy about the exact same ignitor-- or it will not allow lighting-- even with a new 'generic' installed.

How deep do you want to go into this repair?-- Maybe it is time to call the service people into do the job?-- You can tell them that you think the ignitor needs replacing-- and approx. what will they charge you for the service call and the ignitor?

I hope this helped.

Mack B

Most common problem is the glow bar ignitor. Lift off the bottom panel of the oven and remove. (Some have two screws holding the panel at the back of the panel.) Turn the oven on and see if the glow bar glows.
Even if the glow bar glows doesn't mean that it is working 100%. An amp probe is need to see if the glow bar is drawing the proper amperage to allow the gas valve to open allowing gas to come to the burner. The glow bar should draw about 3.5 to3.8 amps. If drawing more or less than this, replace the glow bar ignitor.
I hope this helps.

OK, it is likley that the oven ignitor isn't working and needs to be replaced. To verify if this is the problem, when you turn on the oven to BAKE and set the temp at say, 350. Watch through the window, (or you can have the door open). Look at the bottom, back, center and see if you see a bright orange glow appearing under the bottom panel.

If you don't, that is why the oven won't lit the gas. There is an ignitor for both the broiler burner at the top and for the bake burner in the oven compartment.

It might be possible that your oven uses the same ignitor for both the broiler and bake burner tubes, so you could swap them if you wish to confirm that is the problem before you go and order/buy a new one.

Sometimes the ignitor burns out half way through but because it still lits/glows, people think it's OK, but it won't get hot enough to signal the gas valve to open and allow gas to ignite and get the oven cooking.
If you want to see a line drawing and a parts list showing the ignitor(s), go to searspartsdirect.com and enter in the model number of your oven and click on the links shown.

Hope this helps and best regards!

Check the burner ports near the ignitor for blockage. I had one of these units, and the ignitor was not mounted correctly, and caused a similar problem

Your gas valve has a thermocouple circuit that will not let gas flow until the ignitor is hot enough. A failed ignitor can still glow but not be hot enough to open the gas valve. Replace your ignitor.

My oven glowbar stopped working christmas morning. Yesterday we bought a whirlpool brand (igntr-oven #4342528) because it is twenty something dollars cheaper then GE. My husband installed it today. The only difference is you have to splice the wires (it comes with everthing you need) The first time he put it in it did not work because he had the wires backwards. He switched the wires and now its working fine.
My oven is two years old also.

The JGRP17 (not a full model number) does not have a pilot light. It uses glow bar ignitors. Watch the burner at the top of your oven when you turn on broil. After a short time the glow bar ignitor begins to glow, and a short time after that the broiler burner should ignite. The same thing should happen with the oven burner under the floor of the oven when you attempt to bake. If the igniter does not glow, or glows and burner does not light, replace ignitor. (looks like part # WB2X9154)

more than likely your glow bar ignitor has stopped working or at least pulling enough amps to open the safety valve. The floor of the ovens come out may have a couple screws toward the back. take the floor out if a diffuser is on top of the burner remove it. the glow bar ignitor is mounted on the burner turn the oven on and watch it should glow bright red and in about 30 secs open the gas safety valve. If it does not glow you may want to verify power to the ignitor, more than likely the ignitor is the problem. If it glows but does not open the safety valev still replace the ignitor not pulling the required amps to open the safety valve. just put a little dish soap on the screws to the ignitor to help from srtripping them out