Wolf Oven After I followed directions for self cleaning in my double wolf oven, I can no longer utilize. I set on BAKE and 350, and the temperature does not heat up. Please assist in directions. 48" Gas Cooktop-

Good afternoon Steve!
The answer may depend a bit on what you mean by 'stops heating'.

• One interpretation could be 'the heating shuts off, and the oven goes back toward room temperature
• The other would be that it heats up, but it heats to a certain temp and then stays there. it's just not as hot as it's supposed to be.

If it's the former, that sounds like something is overheating and an interlock is engaging because it's interpreted as 'I'm too hot where I shouldn't be, and I should shut off before I cause a fire. I'd leave that to a better trained service tech.

If it's the latter, then it'll depend on how low it is. If it's way low, then there's a couple possibilities:

1. The heater element is defective, and even at the full current draw the oven can run, it can't get any hotter than that upper temp. This would mean replacing the element.
2. The temperature sensor in the oven is defective or mis-mounted. There should be a temp sensor inside the oven cavity. if it's disconnected, or, say, bent out of place and much nearer the bake element then it should be, then the heat coming direct off of the element may be fooling it into thinking the oven is hotter than it really is. this could mean replacing the temp sensor, or just re-mounting it to proper position.

If it's just a bit low, then there could just be a calibration problem. If you look at the manual here
DCS WOS 127 Use And Care Manual Child Safety User Option you can see how to adjust the calibration up or down in temperature to, hopefully, match the oven thermometer you're trying to use as a check.

Hope this helps!
Good Luck
D

Oven comes on and off intermittentlyor heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

OrWhy does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bakeignitor. Replacing theignitorusually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that theignitoris the problem before replacing it.Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

OrOven safety valve needs to be checkedwith multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSOTest the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreakerpanelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meterto the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!











Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature controlis usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.
The oven sensor:works with the oven control board to regulate the oven temperature. If there is an oven temperature problem, this sensor might be defective. The sensor can be tested by using an ohm meter. As temperature rises, the resistance measurement also rises. The manufacturer of the oven sensor determines the correct resistance,Oven temperature problems can be caused by other things,but this is one of the common causes.
Beware on some models nowmost of these ovens they are electronic and they are integrated into the control itself
some different sensor ohm readings at room temp. approx 16 ohms at room temperature and at 350?F it is 29~33 ohms.
Read more:
http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/5xrsf-ge-xl44-gas-oven-oven-ignites-even-when-oven.html#ixzz3YdtiPcn8
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

Because the features mention utilize 220 VAC power, I do not advise you attempt any corrections. Very dangerous; unless you are a trained technician. If the unit is in Warranty, get the Whirlpool folks out to you home ASAP.

You could try reseting the clock to the manual position.
If in Automatic the oven won't turn on until set time.

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Hi,

The top burner grates are designed to handle direct heat in excess of self clean temperatures.

You can put the grates in to the oven during self clean... but it will not clean them. The baked on residue needs some chemical reaction to break down the reside on them. I would suggest soaking them in an oven cleaner like easy off. Spray them down good then using rubber gloves put them into a plastic garbage bag, spray them again in the bag and close it up. Let them sit and soak for an hour or so then wash them off. This is best done outside so the odors will not be in the home in an enclosed area.

often the bake ignitor will burn out during or right after a self clean cycle.You can confirm this by either measuring voltage at ignitor while oven is on.Alternate method remove ignitor ,check continuity, If the ignitor is coming on but no gas,replace ignitor it is weak.Hope this helps ,please take the time to rate my response :)

Remove the oven door skin.

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wolf electric cooktop... several seconds after turning a burner on the unit goes to lock mode