How do you take off the motor from the pump assembly

If the dishwasher is making a loud whining noise, the drain pump or motor bearings are defective, the drain impeller or wash impeller might have worn out. All these components are part of the pump and motor assembly. It may be possible to replace one of the impellers, but the motor bearings cannot be repaired. In that case the pump and motor assembly will need to be replaced.

probably and you could also an entire pump that's good for parts. might be cheaper.

Check inside the spray arm does it look like its clogged with food? If not then it might be clogged in the motor and pump assembly. If you open up the motor and pump assembly and you dont see that it being clogged up your motor and pump assembly needs to be replaced. The motor is weak and not giving enough water pressure to spin that top spray arm. It might not be worth fixing cause of the price of the part and difficulity of the job.

James Memije
Head Technician
Accufix Appliance Service Centre

Either the ABS Module is bad or the Pump is bad--- Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1989-90 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Depressurize the hydraulic accumulator. CAUTION
   Failure to depressurize the hydraulic accumulator, prior to performing this operation may result in personal injury and/or damage to the painted surfaces.
   
2. Remove the fresh air intake ducts.
3. Disconnect all electrical connectors to the pump motor.
4. Disconnect the high and low pressure hoses from the hydraulic assembly. Cap the spigot on the reservoir.
5. Disconnect the shift selection cable bracket from the transaxle and move it aside.
6. Loosen the nuts on the 2 studs that position the pump/motor to the transaxle differential cover.
7. Remove the retainer bolts that are used to mount hose bracket and pump/motor. The engine inlet water extension pipe is also held in position by these bolts. NOTE: Do not disturb the inlet water extension pipe, or engine coolant will leak out.
   
8. Disconnect the wiring harness retaining clip from the hose bracket.
9. Lift the pump/motor assembly off of the studs and out of the vehicle.
10. Remove the heat shield from the pump/motor, if equipped and discard. To install:
    
11. Place a new heat shield onto the pump/motor bracket, using fasteners provided.
12. Install the pump/motor assembly onto the studs.
13. Install the wiring harness retaining clip onto the hose bracket.
14. Install the retainer bolts to the hose bracket and pump/motor. Tighten securely.
15. Tighten the 2 nuts until secure.
16. Install the shift selection cable bracket onto the transaxle.
17. Connect the high and low pressure hoses to the hydraulic assembly and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
18. Attach all electrical connectors to the pump/motor.
19. Install the air ducts.
20. Readjust the gearshift linkage, if it was disturbed.
21. Connect the negative battery cable and check the assembly for proper operation.

1991-95 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. CAUTION
   Failure to depressurize the hydraulic accumulator, prior to performing this operation may result in personal injury and/or damage to the painted surfaces.
   
2. Depressurize the brake system.
3. Remove the fresh air intake ducts from the engine.
4. Remove the clip holding the high pressure line to the battery tray.
5. Disconnect the electrical connectors running across the engine compartment in the vicinity of the pump/motor high and low pressure hoses. One of these connectors is the one for the pump/motor assembly.
6. Disconnect the high and low pressure hoses from the hydraulic assembly. Cap or plug the reservoir fitting.
7. Disconnect the pump/motor electrical connector from the engine mount.
8. Remove the heat shield bolt from the front of the pump bracket. Remove the heat shield.
9. Lift the pump/motor assembly from the bracket and out of the vehicle. Fig. 1: The pump/motor assembly mounts to the top of the transaxle case and is covered by a heat shield
   To install:
   
10. Fit the pump motor assembly onto the bracket; install the heat shield and its retaining bolt.
11. Install the pump/motor electrical connector to the engine mount.
12. Connect the high and low pressure hose to the hydraulic assembly. Tighten the high pressure line to 145 inch lbs. (16 Nm). Tighten the hose clamp on the low pressure hose to 10 inch lbs. (1 Nm).
13. Connect the electrical connectors which were removed for access.
14. Install the high pressure line retaining clip to the battery tray if it was removed.
15. Install the fresh air intake ducts.
16. Bleed the brake system.

From the sound of it the pump has seized and the thermal breaker is tripping causing the off and on buzzing sound. The problem could be in the motor or the pump attached to the motor. The easiest way to check this is to pull the pump/motor assembly out and check the rotation of the impeller. The impeller should spin freely with no drag. Most pump/motor assembly have a screw slot in the back under a plug or just open in the middle of the back of the motor. In some cases this test can be done without removing the pump/motor assembly. If the motor and pump do not spin freely, puchase a new pump and motor as one unit..

hi! there,
well occassionaly leak on pumps this is due to the mechanical shaft seal has been worn out.If you can do fix your self
try to prepare tools to be used mostly set of socket wrench,set of open and closed wrench,pipe wrench one pair,screw driver flat and cross,switch off circuit breaker of pump motor,disconnect elctrical wiring of pump motor,disconnect pump pipe fitting usually on union service fiiting, if pump is free from fitting loosen bolt on pump motor base,pull out pump motor place on a particular working table,have a prepare box to place all bolt to be disconnected on pumps,we have to pull out motor from pumps housing assembly
have you seen hydro pump,the motor assembly was couple to pums assembly.thereare 4 long bolts connected holding motor to pump assembly at the back of motor loosen this to disengage
motor and pump assembly,try to put mark on motor back cover
for reference in putting back.if motor is disengage on pump assembly, of course the rotor of motor still connected on pump assembly.

the shaft seal is connected to the rotor shaft inside pumps assembly,there are 4 bolts holding pump casing front cover loosening this will appear the centrifugal blade connected to rotor shafting holiding by a big nut at tip of rotor shaft.loosen this by socket wrench try to find the size,then pull centrifugal blade with
the shaft seal,buy this one with same specification exact value of shaft seal,if there is mistake buying seal either leak again or to tight.shaftso this type is just sample to have idea,afterr you purchased put it back and reassemble the pump motor.thi is easy one, have a nice day don't forget to rate me. thank's

Ok, normally, when you hear abnormal noises and the draining has stopped, this will point to the pump/motor assembly. this assembly , basically, runs together in unison. the pump/motor are as one and if the motor is malfunctioning, the pump will not drain properly. this noise is coming from the pump housing. There are many parts that are located in this housing and one fragile part that can cause issues is the Impeller. this piece provides the pump action that moves the water during drainage. If the sleeve that connects to the Impeller becomes stripped, the motor drive bolt will simple spin freely, causing this noise and no drainage. The motors fine but, you will have to replace the pump assembly in order for this noise to stop and the normal draining cycle to return. just to be safe, check all the drainage hoses as well.

please rate and god bless:)

Could be bad main wash pump motor, bad capacitor on said motor, or broken or jamed pump impeller. You will need to remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly to get access to the pump impeller to see if it is jammed or broken. If you can turn the motor shaft but the motor just hums then the motor of motor start capacitor is gone. You can order the motor with start capacitor and impeller for around $130. Check for 120v at the motor terminals prior to replacing motor/pump assembly to confirm, 120v at motor would but motor not turning equals bad motor and or capacitor.

The only reasons to replace a pump motor are very loud motor or leaking water from the seal of the pump / motor assembly. The motor comes as the pump / motor assembly, and is not real cheap and not particularly easy to replace, so you may want to consider cost of replacing the entire unit. Appliance repair locations can order for you, or you can order directly from GE over the phone. (GE answer center 800-626-2000) Make sure you have complete model number, located on the sticker on the left side of the tub just inside the door.

Motor-Pump Drive assembly is defective.Hey while you have this machine apart pull the drain pump off and look for a jammed flap,it's rare but check it anyway.(to remove the drain pump just twist it and pull it off).For the non believer's out there ,this will be a learning experience.You will NOT resolve this "not clean dish" problem unless the Motor -Pump assembly is replaced with the one they now make that works. THIS to some repairman was called POWER DRIVE ASSEMBLY. Quick note: motor - pump does NOT include the drain pump.Think about that for awhile.Any way the drain pump will not be the problem,the Motor-Pump is!