I have an older Crane 317 wall mount toilet installed 1973 with a damaged waste flange made of brass. Is it possible to get a new flange and seal to repair this?

Hi Connie.

Hoping I'm visualizing this properly. The stand pipe under the house is generally pointing upward and has a flange on it. The toilet will have an indent on the bottom that is somewhat larger that the flange diameter. Then there will be a wax ring that is seated around the neck of the flange right before the toilet is placed down on top of it. The general process is that a new wax ring is placed, the toilet is lifted and, as carefully as possible, lowered straight down over the floor bolts. Once it makes contact on the floor, the toilet is gently rotated a small bit clockwise and counterclockwise to make sure that there is a good solid contact with the wax. The toilet is set square to the wall and, hopefully, with the floor bolts centered on the slots. Someone sits down carefully on the toilet to put pressure on the wax and seal it (this should not be done on a cold day, as the wax may not flow, and may even crack and leave a gap).

From what I saw you write, my questions would be whether the wax gasket was installed. if not, pull the toilet, obtain a gasket, and try again. if one was installed, were the remains of the old gasket thoroughly cleaned away from flange and toilet bottom? if not, the old wax may have cause uneven flow/sealing with the new ring (too much wax in the space).

You can also check that the leak isn't coming from higher up, like at the join from bowl to tank. If it's leaking there, depending on your toilet model, it might leak once the flapper is lifted in the tank, flow down the back outside of the toilet, and down under the house. In that case, it could be a bad seal, or the tank-to-toilet bolts not having been tightened.

Hoping this gives you some ideas

D

If you have found no leaks on the supply line, be sure to check the seal between the tank and the bowl. This is a common source of leaks, especially on older toilets that have seen much use.

Before you do that though, check carefully at the base of toilet to see if its possible any water is appearing from under the toilet. Your toilet sits on a seal, most often made of wax (sometimes rubber) that seals the water and waste from the toilet into the drain pipe. Normally, those seals last many years. Flush the toilet 3-4 times and observe whether any water seeps out under the toilet. Give it a few minutes (4-5) and recheck. If it is leaking, the fix is pretty simple: Shut off the water, disconnect the source water line just so you won't risk breaking it, and remove the 2-4 toilet bolts. Rock the toilet gently and pull straight up until the seal comes loose. The beeswax seals seem to work the best. Scape off as much of the old wax as you can, and set a new one. They are very inexpensive, and sell for around $2-3.00 USD. To reinstall, remove the protective lining (if present) on the wax, place the ring on the toilet, not the flange and carefully place it straight down onto the flange. Try not to make a mistake - line it up carefully. Press down on the toilet's seat area, maybe rocking yourself a little, until you can see the toilet is back in position.

Next, VERY CAREFULLY tighten the toilet's mounting bolts, a bit at a time, until secure. Over-tightening can break porcelain toilets, so be careful.
OK - either that's fixed or you've ruled it out. Next is the tank seal. Unfortunately, the only way to get to it is take the tank off. If its come to that, first go to the hardware store and secure a replacement set containing the tank seal, a new pair of brass bolts, and the bolt seals. Expect to pay around $4-5.00 USD for the set. The job is pretty easy, you use a wide flat-bladed screwdriver to loosen the (usually) brass screws in the bottom of the tank after shutting off the water and while an assistant holds the nuts from the bottom. You COULD do if yourself, but an assistant makes it easier. Carefully lift off the tank, and you'll see the seal. Remove it, and replace it with the new one, being careful to put it in the right direction, as they are usually cone-shaped. Set the tank back on, put the screws back in, using new seals/bolts (just for good luck) and reassemble. BE CAREFUL when tightening the bolts!! You can easily crack the tank if overtightened.

This is a lot of writing, but just to give you an idea, I could probably change a wax ring in 10 minutes, and the tank seal in 15 or so. Best wishes -

Get the adapter $35

Turn off the water at the supply (under the toilet, usually).Flush the tank to remove all water from the tank.Disconnect the supply from the tank.Remove bolt caps or bolt covers from where the toilet bolts to the bathroom floor.Remove bolts from the floor flange. When you lift the toilet up, you'll see a metal or plastic flange. If the toilet has been there for a long time the bolts may not pull out of the flange easily. In this case you may have to use a small hacksaw to cut the bolt below the nut.Put newspaper or an old towel on the floor so you can place the old toilet on it. Lift the toilet off the flange.Take the new bowl (assuming this is a two-piece toilet) and turn it upside down. Position the wax ring on the horn of the outlet. Install new solid brass flange bolts, mount them and position them on the centerline on either side of the outlet.Push the bowl down over the bolts and seal the outlet. The wax will squeeze down and seal.Put the new bolts, washers and bolt caps on. You may have to trim the bolt with a hacksaw.Once the bolts are secure, mount the tank.Make sure the gasket between the tank and toilet is in place. Then position the tank on the bowl. Run bolts through the tank and secure. Don't over tighten (the tank can crack).Hook up the water supply line.Connect the supply to the line on the bottom of the tank.Turn on the water.Let the tank fill.Flush once or twice to make sure the water control is properly adjusted.Put the tank lid on.Enjoy.
ford performance chip.

The tank to bowl bolts need to be replaced. The tank will need to be removed and new SOLID BRASS BOLTS and the gasket will need to be replaced. When you tighten the new bolts on the
tank, lay a two foot level across the tank with cover removed. Tighten each side a little at a time.
I always tighten the tank down until it just touches the raised rib on the bowl, and no more than that.
You can buy generic tank to bowl kits, but make sure the bolts are solid brass.

Check your over flow pipe in the tank to see if you need to lower the water level amount in the tank. If thats not it, it could be the seal thats under your flapper between the tank and base. Simple fix just alittle time consuming

No. There is either a partial blockage between the floor flange and main stack or you have not installed the toilet properly and the wax seal has squeezed wax over the outlet hole. Always clean all old wax off of flange before installing new seal.

Hrm, I see what you mean and this may be a bit late.

The 14" rough in is not standard (as in 12") and the depth (from the back of the tank to the front edge of the bowl is your concern here?).

Kohler also has a Sterling brand with the Windham model. This will sit on the 14" rough and measure less than 30" from the back wall.

You could also go with a Toto ($$$ concerns) as they have a unifit system that allows for adjustment from your roughed in closet/toilet flange. It basically mounts to your flange and then sets back 2" or 4" depending on which model Toto toiler you are installing. The Soiree-?sp may be your best bet for depth concerns, but not so good for your wallet.

Chris

you will need a vary small flat screw drive and at the bottom of the holder the is a small hole insert screw driver and un screw, it has a small screw that holds to the plate on the wall

You might try looking in an hardware store, or a plumbing shop that has been in business for a long time. Sometimes they have parts that can't be found elsewhere. I would take the old seal with you, if you still have it.