I have an Epifhone SG special, red When I play on the top of the neck the pitch can change up to half a tone. Only by picking a tone on the top it is is very sensibel. I noticed the arm moves a lot more than my other guitarrs. Is this normal with this model? If so can I do something about this? Gustaf Gullander

the 153 is wired like a Les Paul or SG
2 humbucker, 2 vol, 2 tone
with the addition of a 3 way coil tap for the neck pick-up
wired similar to:
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WIRING_MOD_HB0066/Guitar-Wiring-Mod-HumbuckerOFFParallel.html

the switch, has three positions. Typically forward or up will be your neck (or rythm) pick ups, only and will work with one volume knob(usually top right as your looking at guitar), and one tone knob ( top left as your looking at the guitar). when the switch is in the far right or all the way down position, that will be the saddle (or lead) pick-ups. And that works with only one volume knob(bottom right as your looking at the guitar) and the corresponding tone knob. when the switch is in the middle position, botjh volume knobs work and both tone knobs work. You've gotta kinda play around with them to find whatever sound yopur looking for. and tone knobs are very subtle in their changes. good luck

What you describe sounds like pickups fighting against each other meaning, does this occur when using pickups individually or together? This is normal when using more than one pickup together, if it occurs in single mode, something is wired wrong. Another thing is, If using single, are you splitting coils? Individual coils wired wrong can do this, a bad pickup selector switch can also. A loose wire or fiber touching the tone pot capacitor or ground could also. A dead coil on a humbucker can as well. I'm guessing that you are using these in combo meaning a possible pickup selector switch may not be switching properly. The player's level of experience is also in my mind since, all of my guitars do the exact same ONLY when I use more than one pickup. I hardly ever use more than one at a time unless I'm playing a strat.

Taken from http://www.learnguitarsetups.com


There are a few golden rules when adjusting your truss rod. First, only use the rod to keep your neck as straight as it needs to be...do not use it to adjust your action! Second, only use the proper tools. If you do not know what the proper tool is, check with the manufacturer. Truss rod nuts are easy to strip, and once they're stripped, they are expensive to fix! Finally, do not force anything; an eighth of a turn can make a drastic change. Remember, if the truss rod feels tight or doesn't seem to be doing anything, take it to a professional.

1. Start by sitting with the guitar in the playing position.
2. Tune it to pitch if it is not already.
3. Capo the first fret. If you do not own a capo, you can use your fretting hand.
4. Next, fret the bass string with your picking hand up near where the neck joins the body. This is typically around the 14th fret, but it may be higher up with some electric guitars. In our example, we'll be using the 20th fret.
5. Use the string as a straightedge held against the neck which will either bow away, or against the string. This is how you determine the amount of relief in the neck. You can also use a steel ruler placed along the length of the neck, in the same manor.
6. In our example, the approximate half way point between the 20th fret and the 1st, will be the 7th fret where we will observe the distance between the top of that fret and the bottom of the string (or ruler), as pictured. Notice the gap. Hint: Half way down the neck is often between the 7th-9th frets.
7. If you have a gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string, you likely have a bowed neck. If there is no gap, it is likely either dead straight or back-bowed.

HOW MUCH TO ADJUSTThe bigger the gap, the more relief is in the neck. Normally, we want just a small amount of relief in the neck for optimal playing, about the same as the thickness of a business card or less.

If there is a gap, tighten the truss rod clockwise until you have something closer to what we're after. Slide a business card in between the top of fret and bottom of the string (or ruler). Make sure you are placing the card parallel with the string or ruler. If there is no gap, you may be either dead straight or back bowed, so you will need to loosen the truss rod counter-clockwise to get the results we are after. Hint: If the strings are buzzing in the first few frets and open strings, it is often a clear indication of a back bow.

Remember, do not force anything to get the results you are after. If it is hard to adjust or spins freely you may need professional assistance.

The final step in setting your relief is to test it out! If it feels better, you're done! But take note, straightening the neck may actually make your guitar play worse! Consequently, when the truss rod is tightened, the height of the strings are lowered, which can create string buzz if your guitar isn't setup properly to start. Likewise, it can make a poor fret condition more noticeable. So, if your guitar plays worse after adjusting the neck, it is either too straight for your playing style, or it is a sign that more work is needed. Thankfully, you can easily reverse the changes you've just made if required.



For pictures and further info, visit www.learnguitarsetups.com

Go to guitarelectronics.com they have wiring diagrams for your guitar there.

For one volume and tone pot, it would be like this

http://www.guitar-mod.com/wiring/LP_junior.gif

All the earths have to eventually terminate on the earth of the cord.

The on-board computer that senses pitch is designed to work with the stock pickups. Changing them makes the computer unable to "hear" the pitch, and therefore unable to automatically tune itself.This is a common problem, but a Gibson authorized technician should be able to correct the problem.


Hope that helps!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_463100ffd54b591d

The number should be on the neck reinforcement chrome plate on the back. It seems it may have been changed before you owned it. US built ones have 4 buttons Yours has two so it is foriegn made

Santana's had quite a few guitars, take your pick:
1972 - Gibson Les Paul / Gibson SG Special with Humbuckers / Gibson L-6S
1975 - Gibson SG Special with P90 pickup (Woodstock Festival)
1976 - Yamaha SG 175B / Gibson SG Special with 3 Open Coils
1982 - Paul Reed Smith (PRS) Custom
1988 - PRS Santana II with PRS Santana III nickel-plated pickups and .009-.042 D'Addario strings

The controls should be setup in pairs (as long as the electronics haven't been modified. The two closest to the pickups are the volumes and the other two are the tone controls. The top knob set should be your neck pickup and the bottom set is for the bridge.

Schematics and wiring diagram for the typical les paul (sheraton) controls:
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH3T2202

Good luck!