Intake drain flashing - but this time because water is not filling. Checked voltage at controller board - inlet solenoids are getting 120V intermittently. I found online that this is the behavior for fault code f12. But my machine does not give fault codes directly - is there a way to get it to "blink" them?

SOURCE: Miele G851 SC intake/drain light flashing

Hi Dadcar, Your main wash pump has seized (or stuck). Disconnect machine from power & water, Tip machine on its back. Remove screws that hold the bottom tray on. Remove hoses to main motor, remove electrical connections & remove motor (one screw that holds motor is actually on the outside back of the machine(you will see what I mean). Try to rotate (unstick) the motor (this can sometimes be done by spraying a bit of WD40 and trying to rotate the impellor with a pencil (careful not to break any of the fins on the impellor. If you cannot rotate it, then a new motor will be required. Replace back in machine in reverse to removal. Good luck...I hope the motor turns for you. PS Whilst you haven't used the machine very much, this in itself is a problem and can cause motors & pumps to stick, and seals to perrsh. Try to use the machine at least once a month. Kind regards

SOURCE: G892-SC Miele water intake/drain light blinks

The intake/drain light blinks. How do I fix this problem?

SOURCE: no water enters dishwasher (Kitchen Aid KUDS25SHBL1)

usually 120 volts

SOURCE: 2001 Buick Century shift solenoid

It is in the side cover on the valve body. The transmission needs to be removed to access the solenoids.

SOURCE: Asko D3530 water inlet fault code, water valve is

Hello,

It is common for these valves to "appear" to be ok, meaning they begin to allow water into the unit, but then one of the two coils or plungers inside fail, or are clogged with mineral deposit from the water or other debris.

Change the valve and you should be fine. part #1164471, you can find it at select parts depots or on-line retailers like repairclinic.com etc.

** Hire a pro or make sure to use a good replacement clamp on the fill line to the tub when you replace the valve, as well as some plumbers puddy/tape on the inlet fitting. Those little buggers have alot of water pressure going thru them when they open and I've seen them come off or leak due to insufficient fastening/loose clamps, then your machine goes into "flood mode".**

Asko seems to be repeating their past. On the earlier DW95 series (mid 90's to around 2000ish) they had a dual valve inlet which had a single valve rework issued to repair the faulty dual valves, now it looks like they're doing it again. Go figure.

Hope that helps, let me know.

Good Luck :)