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Check the internal ceramic fuse on the circuit board. Sometimes one section will work while another won't. I'm not sure if this model has a rear mounted thermal fuse, but the models with the inline thermal fuse will cause a similar issue.
Check the power diodeThis
electronic component is responsible for transmitting current in one
direction. If the diode becomes defective it will cause your microwave
to not heat. Test the diode and replace it if necessary.
High voltage capacitorResponsible
for storing electricity, this part is a key component in any microwave.
Remove, discharge, and test the capacitor to determine if it requires
replacement.
Damaged magnetronResponsible
for generating waves and producing heat. When your microwave is no
longer heating properly, replacement will be required.
Thermal CutoffsExamine
the thermal cutoffs on both the magnetron and the oven itself. Take off
one of the leads and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals.
If you get a result other than zero, replace the thermal cutoffs.
If everything works on the unit, but you do not receive any heat or possibly the turntable does not turn you have a faulty magnetron (controls heat) and a faulty motor (controls turntable). You would require service on the unit, if parts are available. Some microwaves are so small in cubic foot size, that manufacturer's do not have parts available for purchase/repairs.
I would strongly consider replacing the microwave oven, prices have dropped considerably. The problem you are describing is in the keypad controller board.
you have a bad control board . this board had 2 relays one for the magntron and one for the turntable and the cooling fan together . when the turntable goes out so does the cooling fanm and the microwave overheats ...... there is no good fix for this , the control will cost more than a new microwave . please do not use with this happening . i have see them start on fire when it overheats . please be carefull good luck
I would suspect either door switches or an intermittent control circuit board, either of which can be repaired.
Opening the door while cooking (without first hitting the STOP pad) is the primary cause of door switch failure over time.
I have a text file on my site called "doorsw.txt" which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems. You can find the file via a Google search. It will help you check and replace the door switches if you or an able friend is so inclined.
In some cases, the problem is a bad connection or a bad relay on the control board. That's something we see fairly often, and we repair them for only $32.50 nationwide.
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