This dang thing is constantly needing to be leveled. It hums like crazy. Now it seems to be tilting back too far and the icemaker pools water to the back side and forms an icecicle that has to be manually removed. Is the fact that it is higher in the front making the icemaker water pool?

1) If they have well water, the valve could be blocked with mineral, 2) Regardless of the water source, the actuator coil that opens the water valve could be burned out. 3) There could be ice buildup blocking the water outlet where it feeds into the tray. This can happen if the fridge is not leveled properly and is tilted too far back. It should be tilted back a small amount so that the doors will self close but this same gravity can be your enemy if it lets water linger too long at the fill spout and build up over time. This would be the easiest thing to check first. I would put a carpenter's level on top of the fridge from front to back. If the bubble is slightly forward towards the front, this is probably NOT your problem. If the bubble is smashed up against the front end of the tube and if you can't directly see the filler tube in the freezer, you could try defrosting the freezer with the door open and the fridge shut off for an hour or so. Then turn everything back on and try the ice maker again. In any case, if the fridge is tilted too far back, it would be a good idea to level it anyway. Remember, just enough to let the door drift shut from 1/2 way open. Good luck.

Your drain holes must be plugged up. Dirt or moss can collect on the bottom of the air conditioner and plug up the holes that are supposed to drain the water out. Good luck I hope this helps out.

icemaker wont work in fridge. the buzzing sound might be the water solenoid operating and waiting for water level sensor to be happy. solenoid will make a loud harsh buzz check water supply to back of freezer and see if there is a lever on icemaker you can lift up to turn off.

The problem is the starter capacitor on the back or top of motor depending on make. The capacitor is round and black and about 3 inches long and the diameter of a half dollar. it will have 4 wires with quick disconnects on them, unplug and replace capacitor and put wires back on the same way they came off old one. as far as the noise, the bearings are starting to wear and can be replaced when you get tired of the noise. you will have to take it in to have the bearings replaced.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Self-defrosting refrigerators dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle, usually via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates. If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment and will start icing up. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan. For this purpose you can use a hair dryer to melt the ice built up.

The leaking around the icemaker occurs when water enters the icemaker mold too quickly. It then splashes over the front of the icemaker. You will see puddles of ice on the feeler arm or icicles flowing over the front of the icemaker. There are three potential leak paths. In order to prevent further leakage around the feeler arm, follow the process outlined below:--

1) Replace the old fill cup with a new fill cup. The new fill cup has a water diverter added to slow the flow of the water when it enters the icemaker mold. The fill cup does not fit the GSH and ESS Energy Star models.

2) Install a mounting bracket spacer. IMPORTANT NOTE: It is extremely important that the icemaker is level in all directions, front to back AND side to side. It will be necessary to shim the icemaker mounting bracket to raise the front of the icemaker to obtain the required front to back level. It will not affect the operation of the icemaker to have a slight backward tilt. Install the mounting bracket with the spacer in place. Make certain that the spacer is between the rear case wall and the bottom left hole of the bracket

3) Adjust the refrigerator. It is very important to make certain that the refrigerator case tilts back at least 1 degree or approximately 1/2 bubble on the level.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

have you checked the fill tube on top of the ice maker for a ice clog? If so that usually indicates that the water solinioids in the back side are leaking thru the seal and are constantly letting water past the valve.

Make sure the unit is tilted downward at the back. About 1" lower than the front is good. Even with a drain, the water will pool inside if it doesn't have a slope for drainage.

Is the amount of water to much for the tray size , you can adjust it with the small screw behind the icemaker cover . is the line entering the back of the icemaker jammed up to far causing it to spray ? Or is the icemaker or refrigerator not level

Ice Maker is overflowing and leaking into the ice bucket: There are several things to check for.
Go for the easy stuff first, make sure the icemaker is level, some of the plastic liner fridge's will move and allow the icemaker to tilt over and leak. Other troublemakers..... the fill valve
staying on and over filling the icemaker..... the finish sometimes comes off the icemaker body and all the ice cubes don't come out. This will allow the new water to fill on top of an icemaker
that still has a ice cube or two left inside the body, if you have had trouble with black specs in your ice cubes, this may have been the beginning of your finish problem on the icemaker body.
On the module style ice makers (Whirlpool, Maytag Family, Sub Zero) the printed circuit in the
module head often wears and the contacts become too long and allow the icemaker to over fill = new ice maker or new module head.

Older style icemakers: This gear is bad for breaking and the icemaker quits turning to eject the ice.
You can remove the front cover to see the gear.
This is a common parts breakdown of the older style icemakers

Water fill volume: The water fill adjustment screw will change the fill volumes by changing the fill time.
One half to one full turn usually ( approx ) is equal to 20cc ( 0.68oz ) to 40 cc.
The correct fill is usually 130 to 150 cc ( 4.5 to 5.0 oz ).
When a water valve is replaced the fill volumes must be re-checked!



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Sub-Zero Service Experts in LA Metro

There are 2 important things to be aware of with these icemakers. One is that they need to be completly level, both side to side and front to back. Second, the fill on these icemakers should be right about 100 milliliters. Get a measuring cup with Ml markings and pull out the icemaker. Fast forward the icemaker by jumpering the little test terminals behind the square cover. You need to connect the terminals labeled T for thermostat and H for heater together with a piece of wire. Be careful, as there is 110 volts to these terminals. Keep the wire there for about fifteen seconds,then pul it out or the icemaker will get really hot. Just as a note, for all this to work the icemaker must be plugged in, turned on , and you must hold down the switch that is pushed by the bucket. If there are no test terminals on the icemaker, then you can just fast forward it by pushing the fingers around in a clockwise direction looking at it from the square end. Anyways, once you get it moving, put your measuring cup under the fill tube and wait for the fill cycle. the water should be very close to 100 ml (range is 90-120ml). If your fill is correct, and the icemaker is PERFECTLY level, then make sure the fill tube is inserted all the way into the icemaker. Hope you can wade through all this for an answer. Good Luck!