I have a dimplex heater, the fake fire type and I need to replace the cable 13amp plug and new three core cable brown blue and earth, in the back of the fire there is a red cable attached to a post with two pins do I put the brown and blue on to these pin as I assume these would be the live plug

how much it coast black & decker Heater product model no . or07d
thank you

hi kim you need to get three new conectors and at least 13amp three core lead just wire up exactly as it is now at top just under the lid they are all pretty much same check you dont have any fluff around heater good idear with top off give it hoover out

Probably not the best idea. It may overheat when the heater is running at the high setting. Best to use a 15A rated cord and plug.

The switch is probably a single pole switch and just switches the incoming live to the output, in your case the live from the RCD to the outgoing live of the heater. The 2 earths can be connected together and 2 neutrals. When you mention the RCD external socket I presume the cable to the outhouse is fitted with a three pin UK plug so check the rating of the I66 switch to ensure it can cope with the 13 amp current which can flow.
A double pole switch would be preferable. This provides total isolation and switches off the incoming live and neutral of the cable from the RCD. This is safer because if anyone ever rewired the plug at the RCD and mistakenly reversed live and neutral, a correctly wired single pole switch in the outhouse wouldn't switch off the live and this would be a hazardous situation, especially since the heater is in an outhouse which could be damp.

The plastic ember bed lifts out with a little effort. To assist you, I have included a link to your Bradford model Owners manual that you can download and print for future reference.

http://www.dimplex.com/customer_support/technical_and_troubleshooting?docsearch=GDS26-BW1052&type=&dlang=

Dave, I hope this helps you.

Earth on the bottom, the neutral (blue) will be on your right. The live (brown) will be on your left.

NB: Its not a big issue though if you swap the sides as the current that you are dealing with is alternating. If by mistake you swap the wires, you appliance will still work.

You can use any 15 amp rating cable three core as the power cable of yourr fridge. Normally this is available in three colours, green for ground, brown for lead and blue for neutral.
If sealed plugs arre available it will be ideal or otherwise connect a plug seperately

Is it the plug which goes into the mains ?
If yes then just go to the shop and buy another 13amp plug and connect the BROWN WIRE TO TERMINAL (L)
THE BLUE WIRE TO TERMINAL (N OR NEUTRAL)
AND THE GREEN/YELLOW WIRE TO THE CENTER PIN (E OR EARTH)

Hi.

Very simple this one.
The plug is molded type this kind of plug is sealed so you cant make any repairs internally other than change the fuse.

You will need to cut plug off & fit A new 13amp plug.
There are only 2 wires to reconect to new plug these are
BROWN to L
BLUE to N.

& thats it simple.

In the UK, to connect to the connection block of a fixed integrated oven in a Kitchen, you must be a Part P Registered electrician. Such an electrician will issue a Minor Works Certificate for this work on completion - otherwise they are not Registered!

Be aware that if the work is not done under Part P and a fire occurs, etc your insurance company are entitled to REFUSE to pay out for the damage including any consequential damage to neighbours property or for loss of life!!

The block has three terminals and the Live, Neutral and Earth are indicated by marks stamped on the metal back of the cooker (if a CE product).

L = Live and takes the Brown covered wire
N = Neutral and takes the Blue covered wire
or E = Earth (CPC) and takes the green/yellow covered.

If the cable has an uncovered copper third wire or is coloured Red/Black it should be replaced from the connection accessory on the wall behind the cooker with a heat resistant 3-core Butyl cable of sufficient size to cope with the load of the oven.

If you let me know the rating of the oven (label on door) in amps or watts, I'll tell you what size of cable you need.