Compresor runs and pumps, but does not pump at any pressure to fill tank. I remove lines to check for obstruction, but all clear. Blows with only minor pressure
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I haven't heard of any fuel injected car being fitted with such a switch, except the inertia type switch that cuts the power supply to the pump - as you can hear the pump running that won't be your trouble.
A good fuel pump well supplied with fuel and power is capable of enough pressure to burst some fuel hoses if the fuel line is blocked - therefore the system self bleeds and circulates through the pressure regulator and back to the tank through the return line.
When the engine isn't running the pump will run for about four seconds and cut off until the engine cranks. When the fuel line is empty, only a few seconds of cranking is needed to fill and pressurise the system.
If that isn't happening, it is probably a good idea to revisit the installation and ensure the pump is running in the right direction and the intake is clear of obstruction (no water in the fuel, gauze clear, etc.).
Most vehicles have an anti-siphon on them to prevent that. You'll have to undo the clamp at the fuel fill up and sneak the siphon tube straight to the tank. You will also need to drop the gas tank and empty it thoroughly and even pressure wash it and let it dry thoroughly before reinstalling it. Hopefully no kerosene was drawn up into the sender unit or you'll have to bleed the lines as well. I suggest getting a siphon hose that has a ball in it that you can shake up and down to start the siphon so that you don't use your mouth (a dangerous practice).
There's a fuel pump relay that turns on the fuel pump, as you turn on the ignition before the engine starts, to prime and pressurize the injectors. I'd check the relay it may not be operating.
Possible bad wiper fluid pump. Remove the washer fluid tank and run a jumper to the positive ( red ) wire on the pump. If the pump runs then it's good and you may have a plugged line. Remove the small rubber hose from the bottom of the tank and try shooting compressed air into it to clear the line of obstructions and then re - install everything, fill tank 1/4 way and test. If it works you'll be good to finish filling the tank ! Hope this helps!
depending on the motors style of start-up, if you have a centrifugal type of start winding switch, your motor may be trying to start on the run winding due to a defective contact on the centrifugal switch, if it is a capacitor type starer, you might have a defective capacitor once again the motor is trying to start on the run winding, a way to find out is to be there and listen to the motor when it tries to start and trips the barker, if the motor emits a loud humming noise you have a fault with the start-up winding control device, if the picture supplied with your post is correct the capacitor is the long cylindrical thing at the top of the motor, you can remove this and bring it to a motor shop, they can test this for you
DO NOT SMOKE OR CARRY LIGHTED TOBACCO OR OPEN FLAME OF ANY TYPE WHEN WORKING ON OR NEAR ANY FUEL-RELATED COMPONENT. HIGHLY FLAMMABLE MIXTURES ARE ALWAYS PRESENT AND MAY BE IGNITED, RESULTING IN POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
FUEL IN THE FUEL SYSTEM REMAINS UNDER HIGH PRESSURE EVEN WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. BEFORE REPAIRING OR DISCONNECTING ANY OF THE FUEL LINES OR FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE MUST BE RELIEVED TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL SPRAYING OF FUEL, CAUSING PERSONAL INJURY OR A FIRE HAZARD.
Disconnect the battery.
Relieve the system pressure.
Raise the vehicle.
Drain the fuel tank.
Disconnect the fill pipe hoses.
Loosen fill pipe hose clamps.
Disconnect fill pipe hoses from the fuel tank.
Remove the 4 bolts (2 each side) and remove the skid plate if equipped.
Support the fuel tank.
Remove the bolts and pivot the fuel tank support straps away from the fuel tank.
Disconnect the vapor line fitting at the rear of the fuel tank.
Lower the fuel tank.
To install, reverse the removal procedure
Special Tool(s)
REMOVAL
Clean the area around the fuel pump mounting flange.
Using the special tool, remove the fuel tank pump assembly locking retainer ring.
Remove the fuel pump assembly. CAUTION: The fuel pump assembly must be removed and handled carefully to avoid damage to the float arm and filter.
Remove and discard the fuel pump mounting gasket.
INSTALLATION
Clean the fuel pump mounting flange and the fuel tank mounting surface.
Apply a light coat of Premium Long Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to the gasket to hold it in position during assembly. Install the fuel pump mounting gasket.
Using the special tool, tighten the fuel pump assembly locking retainer ring.
That is an extremely high pressure. I would firstly check to make sure that THAT is what you need, then MOST compressors have a regulator where you can adjust the pressure required. It is not so much the pressure you need as the STORAGE of air that you need for a pressure that high. MOST tanks are around the 20 or so litre. To utilise a tool requiring the pressure of 75PSI I suspect you would need a tank of somewhere around the 2-300 litre size or maybe even bigger. But first just make sure that you DO need the 75PSI you mentioned.
have your evaporative purge valve solenoid check. because its controls the gas vapors going to canister purge or vent valve.take it to dealers have the evap system scan because its not venting or controling gas vapor.it suppose vent gas vapor to intake to be burn.if it dont work it causes excess gas vapor pressure built up in tank. make it hard to pump gas into it.
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