Washing machine broken, kenmore model 110.92274100
If the washer does not spin ONLY when it gets to the spin cycle, you may have a broken lid switch. Here' how you can determine if the switch is working properly or not. Open and close the washer lid and listen for a "clicking" sound as the lid opens and closes. If no click is heard, chances are your lid switch has come loose, the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid that depresses the lid switch contacts when the lid closes), or your lid switch is broken all together. If you make the determination that you need to replace the switch, follow these steps:
First
of all, unplug your washer. you'll need to remove the console in order to get
to the lid switch. the washer may have release tabs under the console at each
front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each
corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in
and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may
have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently
prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a
small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you
will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the
older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back.
Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over
the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage
the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform
the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch
from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. you will need to remove these to
remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into
the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the
screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will
release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the
opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting
from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain
access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding
it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the
casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either
side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The
wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a
pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the
right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch
located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back
on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the
machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame.
There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the
washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from
the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards
the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before
inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first,
and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some
force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch
receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
Now...the oil leaking from the gear case may be an unrelated problem. The gear case IS filled with a honey colored oil. Sometimes they leak. This does not always indicate a problem unless the problem gets progressively worse, or you notice slow spin or no spin related problems. If the amount of oil is a small amount it may not be anything to worry about. However, if you are noticing large puddles, you may need to think about replacing the gear case.
I only mentioned the lid switch first, because this is a simple problem that can often be overlooked, AND appear to be a more significant problem. BOTH components, if bad, can exhibit very similar symptoms. If you check the lid switch and it is working properly, you could very well have a gear case going bad. If you need to replace it, I would recommend replacing the motor coupling as well. Here's a list of part numbers:
Gear case - 3360629R $73.88
Motor Coupling - 285753A $15.49
The parts can be found at searpartsdirect.com under the heading "BRAKE, CLUTCH, GEARCASE, MOTOR AND PUMP". You can also find these parts at repairclinic.com. The gear case on the Sears website is a rebuilt one. The gear case at repair clinic is a new one and costs a bit more. Just type in your model number in the search menu and a part index will be available.
If you make the determination that the gear case is bad, I can give you follow-up instructions on how to replace it. It is a simple repair that you can do with a little guidance. You can also save a bunch in added labor costs.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any further questions.
PS Additional part numbers (if needed):
Lid Switch - 285671 $29.99
Lid Strike - 350733 $10.48
These parts are available also at the Sears website under the heading "TOP AND CABINET".
×