Model WJSE4150B2WW ser# AF171808G GE washer agitates but won't spin with front cover off motor turns belt in the right direction for just an instant and then stops interior basket can be turned manually by rotating center pulley CCW as viewed from above drain pump works timer seems to be acting properly also caslo

GE Washer Parts Model WJSE4150B2WW

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

The transmission pulley must turn both ways. One direction for spin and the other direction for was. If it doesn't turn in the wash direction there is a jam int the transmission. The transmission would then have to be dismantled and fixed IF IT IS WORTH ITGood luck. Try a speed queen next time......www.appliances.cjb.net

Hello there:

The first thing to check when your GE washer is not agitating, is the belt. Let me tell you how to check the belt & the clutch with out having to take the washer apart.

The belt: Set the timer in the spin cycle and pull the timer knob to turn the washer on.
If the washer drains the water and then spins the way that it should, this tells you that the motor, belt & clutch are not the reason why your washer won't agitate.
A broken belt could be the reason your washer is not agitating or spinning.

The agitator: After making sure that the belt, motor & clutch are working ok, lets check the agitator.
The agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the transmission shaft.
Too much usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is not agitating.

The clutch: A bad clutch could also be the reason the washer won't agitate or spin. Usually when the clutch is bad the washer will be noisy, like when you have bad brakes on your car.

The transmission: The transmission could be the reason your washer is not agitating. A common problem with the transmission is oil leaking right on top of the motor pulley and the belt.
As you can see, there could be different reasons why your GE washer is not agitating. You just need to keep checking each part until you find the problem and replace the part responsible.

Belt is broken. Remove front cover of washer. If you look where top meets front in the seam there are two clips, using a flat head screwdriver push into seam and pop clip. Front will then remove. Check belt at bottom of unit. Replace with the same belt. Difficult to get new belt on! You have to start with belt on motor pulley then on drum pulley holding and turning drum pulley as you stretch belt around pulley. Replace front cover.

It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these: Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Let me make sure I hear your symtoms right..

The washer fills...sound like the motor is running but it doesn't agitate or spin.. then when it tries to drain it bascially gravity feeds out until there is no longer enough water to force it out?

Sounds like the belt is off, or broken.. I am not all that familiar with your model, but I think most GE's are belt drive.

If it were the agitator coupler, the washer would probably still drain..

Pull the front cover off of the washer, you will see the belt and pulleys, make sure it is A: still on the pulleys, and B: tight.

If not, loosen the four bolts on the moter, put the belt on and then slide the motor towards the rear to tighten it.. then tighten the four bolts. They may simply have not tightened the bolts on the motor from factory and the motor slid back loosening the drive belt.

GOOD LUCK!!!

Your post shows a model WJSR2070B and a model WJSE4150B2WW but in this case the procedure is the same. Use a putty knife to push in the clips at the top seam of the front panel, where the front meets the top, about two inches in from each side. Tilt front panel forward and lift off bottom pegs. Loosen the four nuts holding the motor with a 3/8 inch wrench so you can push the motor back a bit. Take old belt off. Install new belt (WH1X2026), putting belt around motor pulley, part way on big pulley, then turning big pulley by hand to ride it onto the big pulley. Use one hand to pull motor toward you to put a little tension on the belt as you tighten the four nuts under the motor.

You don't list model number so this will be a bit generic for Hotpoint top loader. If the motor spins but the belt is not moving: With power off, manually turn the large pulley the belt goes around, just a revolution is enough. Spin is CCW, but you may have to try CW (agitation). Now set turn the washer on spin again. This may unlock your transmission, but unfortunately is usually only a temporary solution. If the machine was manufactured prior to 1-1-06 and still under five years old, the transmission may still be covered under warranty. Check the back pages of your owner's manual. (labor would not be covered) If too old / not covered, I'd invest in a new front loading washer. The LG's are #1 rated in Consumer Reports and are direct drive (with a 7 year warranty on the motor) so there is no transmission, clutch, belt, or pulleys. You don't have to get the top of the line model, all LG's are direct drive and very good. Other front load machines, although not DD, will also use much less water than your hotpoint and spin out twice as fast or more, reducing dry time and dry cost. I know this wasn't what you really wanted to hear (bad news), so don't bother rating this "solution". (don't want my rating to go down just because I told someone bad news about there machine.)