Need to replace d3v-16g-3c25 for my sharp micro...where can I get it... .1 amp 124v dc

How to fix microwave that counts down but does not heat or ...

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How to fix frigidaire microwave door sensor relay switch. ... with a different part number (D3V-16G-2C25) but it doesn't look like it's stocked. ... Problem now is that when we open the door, themicrowave comes on by itself! ... I am not sure, when you hooked up the volt meter, did the lights turn on and off ...

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i have a nn-h965wfx the light comes on the countdown initiates but nothing comes .....I have a similar full size panasonic inverter microwave NN-L931BF built in ..... After putting it all back together the thing doesn't even power up the display.

Panasonic 1200W 1.2 Cu. Ft. Countertop Microwave Oven ...

www.amazon.com/Panasonic...Microwave.../B005BFZ...

Amazon.com, Inc.Ft. Countertop Microwave Oven with Inverter Technology NN-SN661S Stainless at Amazon.com. ... The microwave panini meals even end up with toasted crisp bread. ...But, right now, I find the interior light functionality just fine. .... (1) In this Panasonic, the light doesn't come on when the door is open; it only comes on when ...

I have a r-1482 model so I don't know how close they will be. The biggest issue I found so far with my particular model, yours my be the same, is the door safety micro switches fail primarily from opening the door while the unit is in the process of cooking which causes them to arc and burn the contacts resulting in premature failure. With an ohm meter, check the resistance of the contacts of each switch individually with the COM terminal lug temporarily removed and ensure the closed resistance is 0 ohms and infinity when the contacts are open. Measure from the COM terminal to the terminal in use either N.O. or N.C., with the switch button NOT depressed the N.O. will be open while the N.C. will be closed and with the button depressed they will be opposite, in other words N.O. will be closed and N.C. will be open. Another thing to check is that the door hooks aren't broken (they activate the safety switches. Should you remove the switch bracket to replace the micro switches, make sure you wire the switches exactly the way they were COM to COM, NC to NC & NO to NO, mount them in the bracket the exact way they were and adjust the bracket so that the switch buttons are just to the point of being fully depressed and no more when the door is fully closed. The micro switches may be different in model numbers but you can sub with a micro switch that has all three COM, NC, NO terminals and only use the terminals in use for the given switch. I used Omron p/n: D3V-16G-1C25-K from Mouser Electronics (800) 346-6873. Since you didn't indicate the control panel was not operational I won't go into that area. I can't say if the timer will count down or not if the micro switches are bad, but it's a possibility, further pointing to the switches. If the control panel or MW tube is bad it's my recommendation to buy a new oven, though you can get new MW tubes, diode & capacitor, it's not worth the shocking experience to the human body, not to mention the MW radiation.
Good luck if you still have the oven and decide to take it one step further.

Did you disconnect and test the three latch assembly microswitches with a multimeter or continuity tester? The top and bottom switch are normally-open, and the middle switch normally-closed. The lower switch seems to be the one that takes a beating and most often fails. It should be an Omron D3V-16G-3C25 and can be found on eBay for $10, or via an electronic parts supplier.

It should be an Omron D3V-16G-3C25, you can google that number and find a few electronic parts suppliers who sell them in a quantity of one. Likely the cheapest route is to buy off of eBay where I see them for $10 shipped.

после отсоединения панели и соединения обратно нарушились команды. допуксаю что мог перепетать два провода местами

That switch carries the current of the turntable motor, fan motor, and the high voltage section.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

It causes a spike at opening that eventually arcs and pits the contacts inside, and it can cause melting of the case.

You should check the switch mount for cracks, too.

Sometimes excessive current can make them fail too, but your fuse should blow before the switch.

We have the full service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

You will need the free Acrobat Reader to view or print it in case you don't have it already.

If a switch is all you need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can order here.

We're happy to help you. Once we have all your information and offer a final solution, we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

yep going through the same thing myself. I found that the OMRON switch V-16G-3C25-M is bad and now I'm trying to find one. I contacter OMRON but they said the switch can only be orded from panasonic so I'm going that route myself. If I have any luck I will write back.

My parents had the same problem. It turned out that a switch went bad. When you take the case off, there are 3 switches where the door latches. The bottom switch went bad. It is an Omron D3V-16G-3C25 switch.

If your unit runs for 59 seconds then stops, the problem is the convection damper motor. (Sharp part # RMOTDA222WREZ).
Unfortunately, you cannot access this from the front - the whole unit has to come down as the entire outside cover has to be removed.
This is a pretty major job and the motor (located below and behind the magnetron tube) is rather hard to remove and get back into place. This is probably better left to an experienced technician. You can call Sharp 1-800-BE SHARP for a referral to an authorized servicer.

We have the R1480-series service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.

Double-check your wiring against the "pictorial diagram".

The switches will have a "C" (common) terminal, and a "NO" (normally open) terminal, and some will have a "NC" (normally closed) terminal.

As long as those connections are the same and the voltage and current (amps) ratings are the same or higher, any number of switches will work.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

It's easier to secure the switches with hot glue than to replace the latch heads, by the way.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.