I am replacing an old SS5 timer with this new one (ST01C) to control two sconces in my dining room. My question relates to the wiring. My old timer has three leads. The new one has four. In the switch box, there are three wires, a black, a white, and a ground. With the new timer, black lead goes to black (hot), white lead to white, and green lead to gound. The question is the red lead which is supposed to go to the "load". But, I only have one black wire coming out of the wall. I did notice that on the SS5 (which had black, blue, and red leads), the red lead was "capped" and did not seem to be used. The guy at the store insists that there has to be a "load" wire, but I do not see one.

The old Intermatic SS5 has not been made for a while....
There is no programmable timer that also dims,
There are Intermatic battery-operated timers that do not require neutral,
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#st01

and Defiant / GE incandescent-only timers do not need neutral.. but do not have dimmer
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#15313

However, some of the wifi and zwave devices offer both timed and dimming capabilities... but they require Neutral wire.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Which timer?
Is timer new or old?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#battery
Add a comment with more information
Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Manual for the discontinued SS5 appears following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals-old.html#SS8

Most the timers at local box store are cheap replica brands. I recommend higher quality, such as Honeywell single-pole heavy duty programmable (or dawn-dusk) timer shown following link: requires Neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#honeywell

If you need the 3-way or do not have Neutral wire, then battery-operated Intermatic is best choice. Choose either 1 or 5 year warranty:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#st01

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Description of wiring is unclear
Timer is not identified.
Different timers install different ways.
Not all timers are made to control a pump.

Here's what I know:
1) You are replacing single-pole switch.
2) You want to control pump with timer.
3) You posted question under ST01C timer, but ST01C has 1 blue wire so you don't have ST01C timer.

Here's what I need to know to help you:
1) What HP shows on pump nameplate?
2) What color wires are coming from pump, and how did each wire connect to single-pole switch?
3) What buttons are on timer so I can identify timer.
4) What color wires are on timer.
5) What other wires are inside switch box other than wires going to pump.

Intermatic SS8 Instruction Manual says:
The timer can control incandescent lights, fluorescent lights, flood lights (PAR lamps), stereos, or appliances such as an air conditioner. The timer can also control many loads 12 to 277 VAC and 12 to 28 Volts DC.

Intermatic Load rating pdf shows SS5 at 500Watts and no HP rating.
Load rating pdf shows SS7 and SS20 rated for 15Amp, 120V-1HP, 240V-2HP.
Load rating does not show SS8, but since SS8 manual shows 'appliances and air conditioner,' and same load parameters shown for SS7, then Amp and HP rating would have to be same-similar to SS7.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html#ST01C
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Load-ratings-for-Intermatic.pdf

The blue wire always goes to Load (light fan motor)

If you have Intermatic ST01C or EJ500, see wiring illustration on following page:
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C
If this is not your timer, then add a comment.

Wiring is dependent if you are replacing single pole switch or 3-way switch.

For single pole switch replacement:
Old switch has two wires.
Connect these wires to timer blue wire and timer black wire, in either order for now.
Green connects to bare ground wire.

Turn power ON.
Click timer on-off button.
If lights turn ON-and-OFF, then timer is wired correctly.
If lights do not turn ON-and-OFF, then reverse blue and black wires.
Timer red wire is capped off with wire nut

If your lights involuntarily blink after pushing ON-OFF button, then timer red wire is connected where timer blue wire should be connected.

For 3-way switch replacement, there is also a wiring diagram shown on link above.
Keep in mind that ST01C and EJ350 cannot replace a 3-way switch wire-for-wire.
Blue wire must always go to Load.
The other 3-way switch is also wired differently.
Add a comment with careful description of your wire colors and I will respond.

You can also take advantage of fixya phone support.
Fixya expert will walk you through the steps while you are wiring the device for a price.

If I understand correctly, your new timer also loses time?
And the old timer ran slow from the beginning, so you installed new one and it also runs slow.

I was researching timer motors running fast, but the ST01C has electronic motor.

You checked the wiring, but the ST01C functions entirely on the battery.
I have an ST01C here in my office drawer that clicks on and off and it's not connected to any wiring.

The coil might be affecting the battery or electronics, but that's just a relay or contactor.
I set these timers on contactors without any problem.
ST01C manual says timer is good directly to motors ... 1 hp 120V and 240V 2 hp .. and even DC loads

ST01C has problems however with circuits located farther away than 100 feet and with wiring located underground. That is true for all 4 battery-operated Intermatic timers, so it makes me suspect your Load is not correct for battery operated timer.

It would be interesting to know what happens with same timer installed on another load ... for example a light fixture. See if same timer runs slow in that application, and pin down if you have a bad run on timers, or if the problem is Load specific.

Add a comment and let me know how this comes out.

1) 6 of 7 timers bad sounds very unusual: contact Intermatic:
http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service.aspx

2) Who supplied the timers?
These timers come with limited 1 year warranty.

3) You can wire new timers yourself.
Each one wires the same as electrician installed.
Simply duplicate exactly what the electrician did.
Don't worry, other folks do this themselves every day.
Turn off circuit breaker to each before changing timer.
Take a few minutes and label your breakers while changing timers.

4) ST01C timer is not affected by small ground faults and problems with wiring since it works by battery. So the circuit is not suspect unless Load (light) is located farther than 100' feet from timer, or wiring is underground.
Open following link for ST01C manual, wiring, and step-by-step programming.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html

5) If ST01C timers are located in cold environment, for example a garage or outbuilding, then batteries will only last 20 days or so. ST01C is an interior timer, not an outdoor timer.
Timers that are made for 3-way switching are indoor timers because of internal or replaceable battery.

6) For cold weather timer that can be used for astronomic dawn-to-dusk -or- 7-day 7-program, you can buy Utilitec 0192773 timer at Lowes.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0192773.html
This timer wires differently than ST01C, but step by step shows on link above.
I think Intermatic makes the Utilitec timer.

7) For cold weather timer that works 7-day 7-programs, buy GE 15071 at Home Depot (does not have dusk-dawn operation)
Wiring and manual show on link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15071

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

ST01C is battery operated timer with red, blue, black & green wire.
Red wire is used when replacing 3-way switch (for ex: light switch at each end of hall)

Red wire is capped off when replacing single-pole switch.

If red and black wires are combined, lights will blink.

If red and blue wires are combined, timer reverses ON-OFF function (just like a 3-way switch reverses).

See wiring diagrams for ST01C
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

If you have a battery operated timer, it is probably the Intermatic ST01C or EJ500.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html
The link above will help you identify your timer.

As a general rule, if a new battery does not revive the Intermatic timer, then timer needs to be replaced. Make sure you have electricity. And be sure to mark your wires before removing timer. Mark the black wire that connected to timer-black wire. It's the hot wire from breaker box.
You can replace with same model and brand so your wiring is EZ.

The ST01C and EJ500 are 7-day timers with up to 40 programs per week. They each connect with 2 wires. Black and Blue with red wire capped off. Just mark your wires before you disconnect old timer. And then reconnect new timer wires just as old timer was connected. The red wire is capped off.

The Aube T1032 is also a 7-day timer with 7 programs per week. This timer connects a bit differently. It connects with 3 wires. You put the black where old timer-black wire connected. And then you connect the red and blue together and connect them where the old timer-blue wire connected.

Other timers require wiring that is bit different, but the page link above shows the wiring ... and you can re-post another question any time >>> or respond to this answer.

Keep us posted.