Im looking for a manual on Sunpro's CP 9080 sensor tester plus for engine sensors / ignition modules. I found one thats a PDF file but I'm having difficulties downloading it!

Backside of the engine near the valve cover

Try this link
Actron CP9080 Sensor Tester Plus Manual Download


Hope this helps!

see this steps and fix it. God bless you
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or cranshaft position sensor CKP

A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.

That sounds like a bad RPS, you would get fault code 130.
130. (10000010) Single Rotor Position Sensor Error
The Motor Control Module has found an error in the pattern received from the Rotor
Position Sensor. Likely causes of this fault are a bad connection on the harness between
the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Control Module, or a faulty Rotor Position Sensor.
Primary Source: Wiring.
Action: Check for corrosion on the RAST connector of the Rotor Position
Sensor and the Motor Control Module connector.
Secondary Source: Rotor Position Sensor.
Action: Check the Rotor Position Sensor with an R.P.S. tester. Replace if
faulty.
Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Replace Motor Control Module.
Quaternary Source: Rotor
Action: Ensure the correct rotor for this phase of machine has been fitted.
Service manual, You will need Adobe reader installed to view PDF's
http://www.angelsnz.net/ZL3SV/misc/F&P%20Service%20manual%20517735.pdf

That would be a symptom of a crankshaft postion sensor going bad . Shorting out when heated up . But unfortunately thier are other sensors that can cause the same problem . Plus the ICM - ignition control module could cause that problem as well . OH yea , almost forgot you vehicle has two crankshaft position sensors . You best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop that has the diagnostic tools to trouble shoot the problem .
The electronic ignition (EI) system consists of the following components and wiring circuits:
• The ignition control (IC) module
• The ignition coils
• The powertrain control module (PCM)
• The 24X crankshaft position (CKP) sensor
• The 7X CKP sensor
• The camshaft position (CMP) sensor
The EI wiring circuits listed here use the following service common names. Between the IC module and the PCM:
• Low resolution engine speed signal
• IC timing control
• IC timing signal
• Low reference
Between the 7X CKP sensor and the IC module:
• CKP sensor (1) signal
• Low reference
Between the 24X CKP sensor and the PCM:
• Medium resolution engine speed signal
• 12-volt reference
• Low reference
Between the CMP and the PCM:
• CMP sensor signal
• Low reference
• 12-volt reference
The IC module also receives power and chassis ground through the following circuits:
• Ignition (1) voltage
• Ground

When it stalls check for spark , pull spark plug wires off the same coil an crank the engine . Is thier spark jumping from one coil tower to the other ? Make sure it's a lack of spark problem .

I would first check the crankshaft sensor, as someone previously had said. Many times on older vehicles they become oil saturated from oil leaks and short out. Also on this model you have an ignition module that sits underneath 3 ignition coils. That module is common to break down under heat. The problem you are giong to have is that it is tough to diagnose when it only breaks down when hot. Depending on the length of time it will not start, you can purchase a cheap spark tester at a local parts store, unplug a plug wire from the plug (carefully. 1st, the motor will be hot and you do not want to get burnt, and 2nd, if the wires are old they may break as you remove them from the plug), plug your tester into the open spark plug wire end, then place it very close to the engine and clamp it on. NEVER hold the tester, the voltage is very dangerous. Have someone try to start the car as you watch the tester. If you have no spark, the most common items would be the crandshaft sensor or the ignition module. The crank sensor is normally the cheapest and easiest to replace, though you may need a special socket. Local parts stores have online repair manuals you can use for free to get the replacement procedure and some testing help. Try autozone.com . I hope this fixes your problem.

Ignition module may be bad. It should be located under the coils, the coils usually plug into the ignition module. Also might be a bad crank or cam sensor

buy a service manual or chec out some specialist lit in hog or biker mags-r u sure that modules for the engine-that letter B is a mystery