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for a 220v 50hz 1000w the fuse is T 6 3 AH 250v for a 100v 1000w the fuse is T10 AH 250v just make sertun thats wright or contact the manufacture address 18912 north Greek Parkway, suite 200 bothell, WA 98011 USA phone +14256720816
hi,
You have to check the working voltage of the adapter of you device. If it purchased from US then it will be 110V. I think the Line voltage in Australia is 220V.Also You have to check is there is any input voltage selector in the in its adaptor . If it there you have to change it to 220V. If there is no such selector then you have to buy a 220v to 110v converter .Then connect the out put of that converter to to your device. You can by this converter at any electronic spare part shope near to you. Or you have to by a new 9V 1.3Amps AC adaptor. When you going to by the converter or a new adaptor take the device. If so they will explain you how to connect the converter or adaptor . By changing a fuse you can't change the operating voltage. If The adapter is designed to use in 110V then the fuse will blow. If you change the fuse and make more experiment with it it will make the full system useless.
ok
The winding is center tapped. It generates +/-24.5 volts DC. Based on it being a capacitor input filter, we need a peak voltage about 1 volt higher to account for the droop of the capacitor and the .7 volt drop of one silicon diode...
Since we need 25.5 volts peak then we need that divided by 1.414 RMS out of ONE side of the center=tapped secondary... So our secondary voltage is 18 volts either side of center.
You will need a 36 volt center-tapped secondary. Here is one that would work:
There is a jumper (JP1 or J1). If you cut that jumper, the mixer will operate for 220V. This power supply is the same with the ones used in desktop computers. I did that to my mixer bought from US made for 110v. I replaced that jumper with a switch (from a desktop power supply), I made a whole and I fixed the switch on the pack panel of the mixer. So now, I can switch it manually for 110v or 220v. It's working perfectly. I tested it for long time and no problems. Good luck. PS. I called the Behringer technical support in the US and they weren't able to teach me that. So I figured it out myself after a big research. See the pictures about my project. :)
The power supply is bad. The transformer more than likely survived however some fuses and possibly filter caps could have been blown. Also some of the regulatory circuitry for switching or digital lines could have been damaged. This being said you should be able to get the amp working again without any problems.
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