SOURCE: GE Microwave problems after HV capacitor replacement???
The rectifier diode could indeed be bad. But first I would want to know what value (in uF) the old one was and what is the value of the new one? If they're too far off, the difference in the capacitive reactance could throw off the "tuning" of the circuit. The uF value of the capacitor is optimized in relation to the other components used in the system. Of course, you'd also want to be sure your new cap is at or slightly above the working voltage rating of the old one, too.
SOURCE: GE Spacemaker XL1800 (JVM1860WD 002) Stoped Working.
The control panel has built-in surge protection, and the high voltage probably tripped that. It will have to be repaired, which we do nationwide for only $39.95 postpaid. By rights, I would say the electrician should be the one to see to the repairs, including removing the control panel assembly to send in for repair. We have *critical* safety & disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams by entering your full model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 Please let us know if you have any other questions.
SOURCE: Ge Spacemaker microwave jvm240 wv Micro hood combo.
sounds to me like the magnatron has shorted out. i don't know of a way to test them unless you have some high dollar equipment. a continuity test prob wont tell you anything. what reading did you get on the cap when you tested it?
SOURCE: Kenmore Microwave, overhead household, Model 721-6264900
If
there's no obvious removable cover over the bulb (and the owner's
manual doesn't address it) some disassembly may be required.
Always unplug a microwave before removing or installing any bulbs.
If
it's an over the range type, remove the vent grille across the top and
see if bulbs can be accessed there. There may be a panel on the bottom
covering the light(s), instead.
If not, chances are
you'll have to remove it from the wall, then remove the outer cover. If
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
If you don't have your instructions, please reply back with your brand and model number.
Once it's out of the wall, the outer cover (wrapper) will need to be removed, just as you'll need to do on a counter top model.
On a counter top model, be sure it's unplugged, but otherwise ignore the instructions above this paragraph.
The
screws you need to remove should be pretty obvious, but a special
driver (such as a T20H Torx type or GTXH20-100) may be needed.
Be sure to put all the screws back in the right holes, since some may be special grounding screws.
Bulbs can be had in most grocery stores, hardware stores, home improvement centers, and big box or department stores.
Many models use halogen lamps. You must not touch the new one with your bare skin, as the oils will shorten the bulb life.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Most likely
causes are an open thermal protector or thermal fuse but could also be blown
fuse in HV area of microwave (somewhat uncommon in domestic microwaves).
Less likely causes are failure of other parts in
the HV area.
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage
transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but
the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already
blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started.
There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light,
and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown,
there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are
somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no
heat:
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would
probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow
the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens -
might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual
(**All the above references to tests are found here)
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