Booster heater quits heating water after a few minutes of use and you must hit reset button to get it to work again. What would be causing this? For Hatco C36208 Booster Heater 3 phase

if u are hitting the red button and it is a heat pump hot water system it means that the unit is going out on high pressure ( the red button is a high pressure manual reset button) this could be caused by a few things could be over charged ( but unlikely if no one has touched it recently) a solenoid isnt opening or there is a blockage in one of the TX valves. if the button u are pushing isnt in the pipe work and it is on the compressor it could be an over temp switch on the compressor ( unit could be short of gas) just need a little more info to pin point the problem.

Had this trouble with a condensing boiler,water pressure was too low, also if thereis an adjustable stat try turning this up ?

Hi
If clean light is blinking 7 times then it may be an issue with heater circuit, door switch or wash pump. If yes then please reset the power to the dishwasher. After, 5 minutes check if you are still getting the same error. If yes, then it is a water heating fault. To resolve this error try pressing this reset sequence-- Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry or Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry, Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry. Now let the unit run for 2-3 minutes and then you press the Cancel/Drain button and allow it to completely drain and reset.
If this doesn't work then it's an issue with the wash pump not pumping the water past the heater efficiently or due to lack of water to heat. Please make sure that heater is not open circuited and is heating the water efficiently. You'll have to check the heater using a multimeter; the meter should read between 3000 to 3300 ohms (Use multimeter on Rx1 ohm setting). If heater is fine then make sure water pressure is optimum and fill valve is working fine. Hope this helps... Please post back for further assistance.

Hi

These blinking lights indicates an issue with heater circuit, door switch or wash pump. Please reset the power to the dishwasher and after, 5 minutes check if you are still getting the same error. If yes, then it is a water heating fault. To resolve this error try pressing this reset sequence-- Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry or Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry, Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry. Now let the unit run for 2-3 minutes and then you press the Cancel/Drain button and allow it to completely drain and reset. If this doesn't work then it's an issue with the wash pump not pumping the water past the heater efficiently or due to lack of water to heat. Please make sure that heater is not open circuited and is heating the water efficiently. You'll have to check the heater using a multimeter; the meter should read between 3000 to 3300 ohms (Use multimeter on Rx1 ohm setting). If heater is fine then make sure water pressure is optimum and fill valve is working fine. Hope this helps... Please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

How long does it stay in the wash cycle? Indefinitely? Does the display continuously show "WASH"?. If it stays in the wash cycle indefinitely (i.e. continuously shows "WASH" for significantly beyond approx. 3 minutes), it's probably a control board malfunction. If it continues to wash after the "WASH" indicator goes out, it could be a shorted wash motor relay on the relay board or a fauly control board.

If the internal rinse water booster heater doesn't reach it's programmed setpoint temperature in time, the dishwasher will run an extended wash cycle to give the booster heater more time to finish heating the rinse water. If this is what's happening, the wash cycle would last approximately 3 minutes, then it would rinse regardless of whether the booster heater has finished heating or not.

The booster temperature thermistor may be bad, giving a false booster temperature reading, causing an extended wash cycle as described above. The booster heater elements or contactor may be bad, preventing the booster heater from heating and reaching proper temperature, also causing the same extended wash cycle to give the booster more time to heat.

I have the same problem about every 3-4 months. Mine is also about 10 or 11. It is usually the sediment at the bottom that causes this. Once the plumber flushes it, it works again. My problem is that I dont know how he did it and the vavle is at the floor level. I am never home when it is repaired. Regular maintenance (flushing) is how you avoid this from reoccurring. That is, if that is the cause of your issue.

If it is gas the wind could have blow into exhaust and caused it to overheat

the limit switch may be going bad!

1. Check continuity of the flue gas limiter (see Fig. 63, page 46 of manual). Go to steps two and three to determine air box temperature sensor fault and replace it.
2. Check for flue gas leakage around the top and bottom seals of heat exchanger as well as the viewing window.
3. Check that venting is within specifications (see Section 3.3 of manual). Long vent lengths, venting with more than three elbows, blocked vent or combination venting may cause this failure.
4. Check that flue gas limiter connector and spade connections are secure.
5. Unplug heater and check the two main plug connections inside the control board.

I've also had this problem. Solved it with the reset button on the back of the remote. It's under the battery cover, next to the dip switches.

Turn on the remote, with heat. Then, at the wall switch or circuit box turn off power. Wait a few minutes. Restore power and within 30 seconds with remote in range of fan hit the reset button. You should see a countdown from 5-0 on the remote screen.

I did this and the heat started working again.