Check to see if you have DEBREE that can BLOCK the mechanisme, it happens after cleaning...
good luck!
Hello
Your serger tension needs adjusting for each new fabric you use, the thread you use and the type of serging you are doing. It's a pain in the neck when you get everything balanced and then start serging a different weight fabric. It gets easier the more experience you have. Start with all the tensions set at 2 or 3, the differential feed on neutral, the stitch length on 2 or mid point. Then using the fabric you want to serge, use single or double layers, depends on what you intend doing, and stitch for a foot in length.
Chain the fabric off and snip the chaining stitches. Ok look at the underside,, the lower looper creates the loops on the underside, the upper looper creates the loops on the upper side. The left needle catches the lower loops to the left, the right needle stitches between the edge and the where the left needle catches the lower loops.If the under side loops are pulled to the right side the tension is unbalanced between the two loopers, so tighten just the lower looper slightly.
Do anther 12 inches. Still pulling over onto the right side, loosen the upper looper a touch, re stitch. Is the needle thread causing puckers, if it is loosen it slightly, or is it loose underneath, if it is tighten it slightly. Stitches too close together lengthen the stitch length. Is the top layer being stretched, turn the differential feed to the gather symbol a little.
One important thing that gets forgotten is there is no take up arm on a serger, so you must ensure your thread is not delivered straight from the spool to the machine, it must wrap at least once around the thread arm that sits above the spools, and that should be extended upward not telescoped down. Your thread will feed to quickly if you dont bring the thread above it, take it from the front to the back through it, and back over it through the channel or holes provided. That acts as the thread slackness inhibitor.
Always draw your thread down to the loopers and needles with the presser foot raised. When you have balanced your loopers and needle tension, don't forget it is only balanced for the fabric you are trying it on. One setting will not do all fabrics. If your spools bounce use the spool caps that should have come with your machine, they will stop the spinning or jumping but still allow the thread to feed properly.
It used to take me upwards of 30 mins to balance tensions, now it takes me moments. So it does get easier as you get more used to your serger.
THANK YOU FOR VISITING FIXYA
You might want to get a new thread or a needle
or try checking the functioning places by checking under
The hobbylocks all thread in much the same fashion. There is a diagram for a four thread hobbylock on this website. It would be better if you found a Pfaff dealer to show you as it is quite complicated.
http://www.pfaffmachines.co.uk/overlock/pfaff-hobbylock-2-overlocker.htm
Once you have it threaded, always cut the old threads at the spool and knot new ones on and pull through. You will have to thread the needles as the knots will not pass through but it does save an awful lot of frustration when needing new colours on the spools.
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I am already using brand new spools of thread and a brand new needle as mentioned previously. Asdfasdfad's solution stopped mid-sentence "checking the functioning places by checking under" . . . I don't know what I'm supposed to check under. I tried to see what was happening by using the hand wheel with the work support area and looper cover open. It looks like the needle is not catching the thread off the looper.
I requested another expert yet asdfasdfad replied. This reply does not help at all. I don't know what it is I'm supposed to check under the machine and the next sentence is incomplete just like the first reply. Is there a language barrier?
I did not change the fabric. I don't have a stitching tension issue. The machine will not form stitches at all with or without fabric. The thread feeds through the machine but comes out from behind the pressure foot in 3 single strands - no looping pattern at all is formed with the thread. I am using 3 spools of thread only with the needle in the right side position. This was working just fine till I ran out of thread. I did re-check the machine for proper threading based on your comments and can confirm it is correct.
I already checked thoroughly for any debris in the machine and there is none that I can see.
I don't know what you mean by "check for correct voltage" or "see if all drives are working". How do I do that? The machine goes through the 'motions' as if it is going to stitch but it just doesn't stitch. The threads feed through the machine and come out in 3 single strands - no looping pattern is formed. The machine is not making any unusual sounds and did not make any unusual sounds prior to this problem. It was working - I ran out of thread. I re-threaded and now the machine will not stitch. The moving parts move freely - there is no rubbing or grinding. I cannot see any obstruction.
Did u ever get hyour Hobbylock #794 to work. It is miserable to thread!!! I use a flashlight. I eally think you are threading it wrong, as tha has happened to me many times in the last 25 years, Please let me know.Maybe I can help. Shelly @ [email protected]
@Carol Toftum. I have a Pfaff Hobbylock 776 and I have the same exact problem as k_ross2. I spent $140 getting the machine all re-calibrated and cleaned and it worked great til I had to retread. I followed the manual to a "t" or so I thought, but just cannot get it to stitch...just 3 straight threads come out!! What is the special trick? Thanks Kathy
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