My grinder lacks power and stops as soon as i put just a little resistance to the wheels...whats wrong with it?

If return instructions weren't included with the item or in the original advertising you should contact the retailer that supplied the item for return instructions as soon as possible.
Unless the pepper grinder was supplied on approval you will undoubtedly want a refund of the cost and so it should not be returned except to an address provided by the supplier.

Your contract is with the retailer (shop or organistaion) who is bound to provide an item that is fit for the intended purpose. A pepper grinder that isn't powerful enough to grind pepper clearly isn't.

Buffing takes a lot of power, maybe a lot more than you expected. Bench grinders come in lots of sizes and power levels. If you have a small, or inexpensive, or fractional hp grinder, it simply isn't up to the task. By the way, rpm is also a big factor. A grinder, especially a smaller one, turns at a pretty high rpm. A given hp rating at a high rpm gives less torque than the same hp rating on a different grinder with a lower rpm. On your grinder you might get away with smaller diameter and/or narrower buffing wheels that you use very lightly. Otherwise, your grinder just isn't going to cut it.

1 Check the grinder before you begin. The newer discs on rotary grinders have patented buttons that allow you to remove the disc without any tools. You may have one like that. In models like this, there's usually a spot to depress and then remove the disc.

2 Turn off the grinder before you attempt to remove and change the disc on your rotary grinder. If it's battery powered, put the grinder in lock position so you can't accidentally turn it on. If it's electric, unplug the grinder from the wall.

3 Look for a nut in the center of the disc. This is a give away that you need to use your special wrench. Sometimes the grinder comes with a tool necessary to loosen and remove the nut. Other times you need to use a wrench.

4 Lock the wheel into place before you begin. You can find a button or switch at the side or back that allows you to do that. When you lock the wheel in place, the disc remains still as you loosen the nut in the center.

5 Remove the nut in the center with either the tool provided with the grinder or a shop tool and lift the disc off your rotary grinder.

6Lift the disc off the rotary grinder. If you have different discs, remember to check for the best fit. Put the nut back on a different way for different discs. Check for a rim and indentation on one side of the nut and a flat side on the other. A visual inspection of the disc for the rotary grinder gives you information about the side to use.

Here is a diagram of your grinder and the tool you are looking for is number 50...

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/dewalt/DW402_TYPE_6.pdf

Yes, the wobble can be fixed. First, remove both wheels and check the shaft bearings/bushings for wear. Make certain the grinder is unplugged and mounted securely. Try moving the shafts up, down side to side; there should be little or no noticeable movement. If there is movement it is a major(time and money) problem. I'm not familiar with what the shafts ride on. It could be, ball bearings(the best-long lasting, least friction, most accurate, but expensive), sealed bearings(almost as good as ball bearings, with many of the same attributes) and bushings(least expensive to produce and fit and cause the most friction. If excessive up,down side to side movement is present a decision must be made as to how much money/time you want to invest. If the shaft exhibit little movement; check if the shaft is running true/straight. Turn the grinder by hand while observing the shaft for bends. If none are seen by eye use a magnetic base micrometer to check run out(deviation from straight). If a micrometer isn't available; bend a short length of wire(coat hanger works nicely) with a small hook on one end and then put a pointer end on the other. Put a screw thought the end with the hook to mount it to the base of the grinder. Then bend the pointed end so it just touches the shaft. Rotate the shaft and notice if the distance changes between the point of the wire and the grinder shaft. Repeat for the other side. A couple of thousands won't hurt. However, any more and the cost effectiveness of tearing the grinder apart straightening the shaft must be considered. The most common cause of grinding wheel wobble is the wheels becoming out of true and/or unbalanced. This is easily cured with a wheel dressiing tool. The tool grinds the wheels in place. By gringing the wheels on the grinder they balance the wheel, true the wheel to the shaft and clean it of imbeded soft materials, aluminum, wood and so forth.

Typically this occurs from a lack of air pressure. So check the psi from your supply. If its below 90 psi you can expect a lack of power and the wheel to slow. Another thought is their could be build up inside the grinder. Recomended Preventitive Maintiance suggest a few drops of oil before use.

The only tile that they are any decent at cutting would be ceramic, slate, or terracotta. Anything else is way too hard and even cutting the listed tile it's no joy to do. I would suggest using a 4 or 4 1/2" grinder with a diamond blade coupled with a wetsaw. hope this helps and good luck.
Mike

That one is hard to explain but I will try. On the front of the grinder is the adjustment wheel, on the wheel is a small screw, if you put your hand on the wheel it might be about 1/4 inch from the front, back up screw about 1/2 turn or more then make sure the grinder is on 3 or espresso, make sure you can pull out front part of the wheel ONLY. If not back up screw a little more and try again, now that it can move freely without moving the numbers, pull it out and turn it to about 5 or 6 then turn grinder on and very SLOWLY, (This is the dangerous part do not go to fast or you could damage the grinder) turn towards trukish grind when you get close you will hear the burrs slightly touching. Back off the knob a little just before the touching part and turn grinder off. Then pull knob out and turn it to turkish and set screw.

I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.

Hi Zlatko,

Ok, i get wrong answer to you. I did a mistake with the model:-(

Yes, you have only one screw in the beanhopper, and to get this cleand you have to take off the top.

This grinder you have to turn anticlockwise to the claque is free you can take it out and clean.

When you put it back you have to turn it so the red mark is together.

If you make a cup of coffe and it grind but not take in water then you have to mount a resistance on the power board.

What serial number do you have on the machine?

/Mirran

My grinder went from bad to worse and finally stopped grinding (with the motor still buzzing but absolutely no grinding). Knowing I had to do something or throw it away, I pulled the clear plastic bean reservoir upward and separated it from the grinder body. I looked down the hole where beans go down to the grinder and found packed coffee ground blocking the hole. I cleaned the whole thing, put the reservoir back, and my grinder now works like new :-)