Question about GE JGBP33SEHSS Stainless Steel Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

JGBP33 Get an F2 Error, oven gets warm but not hot enough to cook, will cook on broiler mode? Any help would appreciated.

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  • GE Master
  • 1,711 Answers

F2
During

BAKE Control senses oven
temperature above 615F-630F If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for
welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven
control (also called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition
occurred
: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high
resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness
and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if
found defective.

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance
of sensor circuit , not actual oven temperature. F2
During
CLEAN Control senses oven temperature above 915F-930F
If actual over temperature condition occurred:
Look for welded relay contacts. If this happens, replace oven control (also
called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition occurred:
Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in
the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor
harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found
defective. Check door lock switches.

Remember: Oven control (ERC)
measures resistance of sensor circuit , not actual oven
temperature.

Posted on Mar 09, 2011

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F2 &F3 error codes, oven keeps beeping, I already tried turning off circuit breaker did not solve problem


F2
- E0 Shorted keypad (also called touch
pad) 1. Check keypad connector for firm
connection (keypad connects to control board).
2. Press CANCEL. If error code
returns after 60 seconds, replace keypad (also called touch pad or membrane
switch). Some models incorporate keypad in to control board as one unit. In this
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if double oven) Replace Oven temperature
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Note: Applies to all F3-E...
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The orange glow is the igniter. Normally, the igniter turns on and begins to glow. As the igniter heats, the change in it's resistance causes it to use more electrical current (amperage). When the amperage level reaches a threshold (let's say 3.2 amps, for an example) the ovens safety gas valve will open because in knows the igniter (using that much electrical current) is hot enough to light the gas. This process usually takes under two minutes. The igniter stays on until the oven reaches the set temp, then it turns off, and the gas valve shuts off very soon after. Then the cycle repeats when the oven thermostat call for heat again after cooling down a bit.
The trouble is, as these igniters get old, they have a harder time reaching that needed amperage threshold to operate properly. You can just swap the broiler igniter with the bake igniter if you wish, as they are the same part number in your model, and the broil is generally used much less, and so should have much more life left. (of course now the broiler and the self clean will not work, until you replace the broiler igniter with a new one.) In rare cases, if you have low line voltage to the range (say 108 volts) that will also cause the same problem, or if you have a poor electrical connection, but those cases are rare, and about 99 percent of the time your problem will be fixed by replacing the oven igniter. (GE part number WB2X9154 for your model)
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Hi there,

F2
Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked - If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit

F2
Note: Also see fan thermal switches - Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation.
· Control senses oven temperature above 650 degrees F with the door circuit in the unlock mode.
· Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode.
· Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem.

· Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode).
· Look for open thermal switch in lock motor circuit. Switch is normally closed and will open if area overheats due to fan not operating. Look for cause - fan thermal switch not closing, fan stalled, etc.
· Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.

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