Plastic shutter button broke. Can release shutter by pushing in the middle but button is gone includeing screw int piece for shutter release. Is this an easy fix?

I also had problems getting my toro 51591 to work. I too discover the safety/kill switch. i used a screwdriver to push it in the hole and activate the machine again. it started right up. I too was going to(and am) find something to put in the hole(like a screw/nail to override and keep the machine from stopping again.it would be nice if they would tell about these safety items. like that they exist ,& where they are located, and how they work. so first try to just rest it by using the screwdriver to push the rest button. it is located on the bottom . it is just a small rectangle where the plastic part is suppose to fit . mine showed a white color filler. plastic part probably broke off and is now too short. so need to do the nail/screw trick to fix it. with duct tape. good luck

Removal instructions:

1) unplug everything and move the unit to where you can work on it.

2) Remove the paper, and remove the hinged lid (tilt the lid to the up position and lift directly up and off).

3) Remove the push button cover which lifts directly off - straight up.

4) At the top of the button control module is a recessed release clip. Use a flat blade screwdriver and push down on the clip. While pushing down, slide the control button assembly down. lift the outside edge up (there are straight clips on the inside edge). Lift up slowly as the connection cable needs to be unplugged. the cable itself unplugs. Just pull down evenly grasping the top blue laminated section. The blue goes to the outside (contacts go to contacts on the inside). Set the button control unit aside.

5) Using a #10 Torx screwdriver, loosen the two screws in the back corners of the glass cover assembly. Lift the glass assembly up (like changing an ink cartridge), and pull the front lip left and right forward - there are two clips at these locations. Pull forward and lift up. Remove the glass cover assembly off and set aside. Note, tip over and remove the scews (best to remove and put back in after the cover is back fully in place). In reassembly, be sure to feed the control button cable back through the hole, and that it goes back into place the way it came out (including folding back into the slot under the button control assmebly).

6) The black plastic cover has two metal clips visible. These are not the release clips (they hold a glass piece in place under the black plastic cover). The release clips are outboard of these metal clips and are two slots. Insert a small flat blade screw driver, and push the handle toward the center. While prying, lift the cover at that end up, pry the other end and lift the black plastic cover off.

7)While you're in there, you might as well clean the mirrors (THERE ARE FIVE OF THEM)and glass. At the front of the lamp on the botton, the lamp wires lead to a white two piece plastic connector. Unplug the lamp wires. Where the lamp is, toward the front is a black philips screw in the clear plastic piece that holds the front end of the lamp. Remove this screw, and lift the clear plastic piece with the front end of the lamp up slightly, and then pull the full lamp assembly forward and out. This will open the space to the mirrors and glass. Use a Q-Tip and small pieces of paper towell and glass cleaner to clean the mirrors and glass strips. I tried to remove these to clean them, but the metal clips were too tight.. better to clean it all in place. BE SURE TO CLEAN THE EYE!!!!!

8) Clean the bottom of the glass top assembly.

9) Reverse the above to reassemble. Be sure to plug the lamp back in, and the button control assembly. Leave the black plastic cover off.

10) Place the glass top assembly back in place, and snap it down before dropping the screws in the back holes.

Don't know why, but you should be good to go.

After doing the above if in a few weeks you get the same msg again go back in there and take the black top off the housing that the mirrors are in and leave it off!!!! sound crazy but it has been working on a lot of the machines that come in here.

To Remove Door Panel on 2001 Honda Accord:

A: To remove the plastic piece with the door lock button and door handle connected to it:

1- Remove the screw in the middle located behind a plastic cover button
2- Push (slide) the whole assembly Forward (toward front of car)
Besides the screw, it is held in place by 3 hooks on the backside that hook into holes in the metal door frame
3- Now unhook handle from small metal bar going through door by pushing (toward door) plastic clip (blue?) off of the bar, then the bar will come out of the clip hole, thus releasing the handle.
4- Depress little grey button /bar (purple painted on it)on elec. connector to seperate connector, thus releasing door lock switch

Now the whole assembly (metal handle, door lock switch, and plastic piece) will come off door panel

B: The door is held on by 2-screws, 7-plastic snaps/plugs, and 1-plastic plug.

The screws are located: bottom of hand hold and the other behind the handle, both covered by little covers that have to be pryed off to access the screws.(hint: the screw with the built in spacer goes behind the handle when you are trying to reinstall)
The 7-plastic snaps: 3 across bottom and 2 on each side. Not visible, they are mounted to the inside of the panel.
The 1-plastic plug is visible at the upper front of the panel and is the same color as the surrounding trim


C: Take off the big plastic triangle piece above the door panel and behind the mirror. Pull/pry off. It has 2 snaps holding it on. one near bottom and one near the front.

D: Light lens prys off from bottom. Unscrew (1/4 turn) the light assembly with bulb still intact from backside of panel

E: Remove the Hand-Hold/window switch assembly:

I was able to get two wedges between the glass and the plastic trim. From that I used a scope to see inside and find the mechanism to release the window. Once I got the glass open, I removed the handle, and two screws from each side of the trim and removed the trim.

Once the trim was removed I had a small opening and could see the problem. The end of the latch has a small blue plastic (why plastic??) catch that broke.

Rather than taking the door apart and finding a replacement, I heated a screw driver and made a slot in the plastic. Next I used a heavy duty zip tie and connected the two pieces (plastic catch and metal part that opens the latch). I left some slack in the connection and all works great.

Not sure how long this will last, but for now I have the back opening. I will look at replacing the plastic piece, but not sure if a total new mechanism is needed.

Thanks
Stan

The fix is real easy. No need to take the camera apart.
Order the Shutter Button Release Assembly from Sony. Cost was around $18.00 + tax + Shipping. I received the new assembly in one week.
Note the angle of the old assembly before removing it so that you can line up the new one correctly.
To remove the old button assembly, use a rubber bottle opener to get a good grip. Turn slightly counter clockwise. Then use your fingernail to lift it up. Look inside using a magnifing (sp) glass and find the pieces that broke off, a spring, a small plastic tip and a small snap ring.
Look at the opening and you'll notice two slots, that's where the two little feet will line up. Again using the rubber bottle opener and pressing down slightly, turn the newassembly clockwise. You'll feel it.
Make sure to clean out the pieces that broke off. I couldn't find the spring, now I can't use that little wheel to bring the viewfinder into focus for my eye. LCD is still sharp as are the pictures. Just the viewfinder.
Good luck.
glenn gorman
Sat, 18 Aug 2007 18:50:55 +0000
Whoops: x21083252
Sony Direct Accessories

Ouch...

The damage may require parts, but maybe not. If I were doing the work, I would charge in the $50-$60 range , plus parts if needed.

Nikon will likely quote you much higher $200+

You can use the repair service locater here on Fixya to find a repair shop in your area

If you decide to open your camera, here's a pictorial disassembly. Don't go any further than popping the top off to examine components in the vicinity of the shutter button. Look for anyhting different than what's showing in the picture. Remember that you can be creative with a little bit of glue, and a small piece of scrap plastic:

http://qman.fotokala.ee/Kaamerad/PowerShotA95/index.html

And keep in mind there's a potential for electrical shock. Read this first before you turn any screws:

http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2007/11/important-warning-camera-flash.html

Fraid not. It is increasing the case now that -with the exception of warranty work repairs are not feasible - The technology and models change so much are are no spares for older kit. A repair shop will cost you -packing shipping and inspection fee plus packing and shipping back to you with little prospect of a repair Money best put toward the next-more up to date camera in my view

There's a more detailed description on how to replace this on DSC-H1 section of this website. The replacement part and procedure, is basically, if not, the same. Just use care and caution!

On the velbon vgb 3, the leg locks consist of a lever, one or two pieces of metal and a plastic piece. The metal and plastic pieces rest in a depression against the lever. When the lever is pulled out, pressure against the smaller leg section is released. When the lever is pushed in, pressure against the smaller leg section is exerted, locking the legs in place. On the back side of each joint, there is a phillips head screw which acts as a stop to keep the leg section from coming all the way out. When the screw is backed out, the leg section can be removed, exposing the latching mechanism. If the only problem is that the latch mechanism came apart, it can simply be reassembled. If, however, something broke and allowed the latch assemby to come apart, that will have to be dealt with as well. My guess is that the phillips screw may have become loose, and the latch came apart.