LG LDS4821 Appears to be leaking from the drying vent. Not sure how to fix or if parts will be required. Looking for guidance. It happens while the dishwasher is washing. I have not attempted to fix as of yet, looking for guidace from someone who hass experienced this problem and resolved.

When your dryer spins to dry, water will start to collect at the vent, vent hose and lint trap areas. Make sure to fully remove the vent hose and lint trap and clean both of them out fully you may have to purchase a new vent hose. Make sure you secure both of these parts in after cleaning this should fix the leaking problem along with keeping your house firesafe

Hi Jim,
I recently noticed exactly the same symptoms with my
LDS4821 which I think is a similar age.
After a bit of head scratching and a similar door cover
removal exercise I also figured it must be coming via
that round vent and then on down the plastic duct that
runs to the bottom left vent in the door that you
photographed.
Here's what I did which has certainly fixed my leak:
1/ First I cleaned around the inside of the round vent
on this inside of the door. Specifically I removed all
the accumulated crud around the edges of the circular
yellow rubber gasket piece at the center of the vent on
the inside the machine (your first photo). I did this
after untwisting the circular grill that holds that in
place - my vent unit behind that grill also wiggles
around by the way, but only when that round grill has
been unscrewed! I was careful to make sure that the unit
behind the grill was seated properly again when I
twisted the grill back on to tighten it and hold it in
place again. I actually checked this with the front of the
door taken off for this second step below to make sure
there would be no issues with the outer seal around that
vent unit (where it presses up against the inside of the
metal door to form a seal when the round vent grill is srewed on).
2/ This I think is actually the critical step. I noticed
a second black hose that runs down from the plastic vent
structure almost directly behind where the round grill
is positioned on the inside of the door. See the picture I've attached re. the tube I am talking about. Looking at this I figured it's some kind of internal drain (that seems to drain back into the washing compartment itself at the
bottom). Given that I'd seen some crud on the
yellow rubber gasket I wondered if some crud had also
blocked the top of this hose, leaving any water that gets in there to
then run on down and out of that vent at the bottom
instead. Sure enough when I employed the crude (but
apparently effective!) technique of sucking on the
bottom end of that tube to see if it was clear, I soon
enough felt a blockage break and I just had time to aim
the tube away before a bunch of grey crud came sweeping
down the tube, followed by some clearer water. By the
looks of it you might be able to unclip the hose clamp
at the top and do it somewhat more professionally to
avoid the risk of a mouthful of 2-3 year old dish crud
in your mouth!
I've just run it through a full 'normal' cycle and it's
back to working normally again - no more leaks.
Well dishwashers may **** at times, but apparently I do
too...
Hope this helps.
-Dan

Make sure your vent tube on the dryer going outside is clean the entire length and the outside door/loovers are free

LG lds4821 overheats filter board and burns it. Probably another part shorts and causes excessive current. Replacing the filter board makes dishwasher run but problem persists

Hi ferrojennife,

The E1 you are seeing means Water Level in Drum lowering, this means there is a leak on one of the pipes. More likely it is the Circulation Pump, which is responsible for pushing the water to the Spray arms.

It will have to be replaced, as it is a common spare that has to be replaced on L.G Dishwashers (lifetime expectancy: 12 - 18 Months) - Not very expensive.

Usually is about 20%-25% the price of a new Dishwasher. The Circulation pump is fitted to the sump. Part Number: 5859DD9001A or 5859ED1001A (Depending which one is in stock)

See below a image of what a Circulation Pump looks like:




Good Luck :-) - J.Q

* If you found this solution helpful, please vote for it

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dishwashers and them leaking.

Leaking Dishwasher

heatman101

Hi,

I have an older dishwasher also and recently my wife also complained about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I am tried in vain to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installed them in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also found that if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess things up bad... So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out the heating element to make sure it is working... Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...

Dishwasher Spray Arms not Spinning

How to Buy Appliance Parts Online

A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers...

Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working

Dishwasher Maintenance

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "explanation very clear. will give it a go and see how simple it was. thanks Ronnie " - ronnieshomes

You may need to adjust the air flow on your dryer vent.
When an LG dryer is functioning normally---the time required to dry laundry is determined by the *Sensor* located on the drum side of the lint filter housing and by the main control board.
When laundry is near dry--any Time Remaining on the control panel that is *not* needed will be eliminated---except for the last 6 minutes.
The final 6 minutes of any LG automatic cycle is for cooling down the laundry before the dryer ends the cycle.
If a dryer *counts down* to the last 6 minutes but the laundry is still not dry--the computer will allow the dryer to run until the laundry has dried or defaults (not drying within the additional time allowed).
Dryer vents that are longer than 8 feet with more than (2) 90 degree turns--can affect drying performance.
Setting the DRY LEVEL selector to *Very Dry* will solve most dryability issues. In homes with abnormally long vents--even the longer run time in the *Very Dry* setting is usually not sufficient to dry laundry loads.
Reducing the length of the vent or starting a second cycle becomes necessary to fully dry the clothing.
If a second cycle was started---only the amount of time that is needed to dry laundry will be used before dropping to 6 minutes and then the cycle will end with dry laundry.
*****************************************

LG gas dryers are more sensitive to venting length and air flow resistance. The gas burner can cause a rapid increase in temperature compared to an electric burner.
Rapid temperature rise in a gas dryer leads to premature burner shutdown (longer time required to dry laundry).
The gradual temperature increase of an electric element is more "forgiving" in homes where the dryer venting is less than ideal.
*******************************************

Problem:
The dryer has an auto dry feature which never fully dries the clothes so we wind up manually setting the dry time to an hour
Solution:
LG gas dryers are VERY temperamental in long vent set-ups. If fabric softener sheets are used in the dryer--clean the two stainless steel strips of metal on the lint filter housing with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD--scrub back & forth several times to remove the waxy residue from the fabric softener sheets. Most,if not all manufacturers do *not* recommend using sheets in dryers that have a moisture sensor (electrodes).
However--using a SCOTCHBRITE pad keeps the wax off those sensors which can be seen if looking *into* the dryer drum and at the lint filter housing.
If only *liquid* fabric softener is used in the washer--clean the dryer sensors once a month. Liquid softener also contains wax which can slowly accumulate on the dryer sensors from the laundry washed in the washer.

LG DRYER SERVICE MANUAL

LG PARTS


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a8b104d87061/Model-CYE2000AYW-Magic-Chef-Dryer-Parts

The dryer requires cycling of the heat to advance thhe timer on auto dry cycle. see ,link provided parts and repair guidance. Always remove from power supply first.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

TOO ALL SAMSUNG LDF AND POSSIBLE OTHER LG DISWASHER USERS:
LG NEGLECTED MY CALLS TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. THE DRIPPING PROBLEM FROM THE CORNERS OCCURS:
1- VENT ASSEMBLY FOR HOT AIR BLOWER SEAL LEAKS: EASY TO FIX JUST USE A GOOD QUALITY CAULK AROUND THE SEAM. YOU WILL HAVE TO DISMANTLE THE BLOWER ASSEMBLY WHIXH IS FAIRLY EASY.
2- THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: LG HAS A DESIGN FAULT. WHEN THE DISHWASHER FILLS WATER AND STARTS PUMPING TO SPRAYS THE AIR INSIDE THE DW HAS NO WHERE TO GO THEREFORE THE WATER WAS PUSHED UNDER THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR GASKETS (THE ONE ATTACHED TO THE DOOR BOTTOM, NOT THE ONE AROUND THE MAIN CABIN). SO AIR WITH WATER PUFFS OUT OF THE PAN HITS THE DOOR AND LEAKS DOWN. THE SOLUTION IS TO LET THE AIR OUT SOMEHOW. YOU MUST TRY TO PUSH-IN THE DOOR GASKET WHICH IS SEALING LEFT/RIGHT/TOP PART OF THE CABIN AND THE DOOR. IF YOU PUSH TOO MUCH THE WATER MAY LEAK FROM THE SEALS SO BE CAREFUL NOT TOO PUSH TOO MUCH. BASICALLY TRIAL AND ERROR. YOU CAN DO THAT AFTER YOU REMOVE THE DOOR COVER. THE LEAKAGE OCCURS IN THE BEGINNING OF THE CYE SO IT IS FAIRLY EASY TO TRY. IF THAT IS NOT A SUCCESS THEY DROP OF CAULK ON THE ONE OF THE DOOR EDGE TO PUSH THE GASKET SO THAT THE DOOR PUSHES IN THE GASKET TO ALLOW AIR OUT RIGHT AROUND THE CAULK. NORMALLY DISHWASHERS HAVE AN ELECTRICALLY ACTUATED OUTLET TO LET THE AIR OUT. THEY JUST WANTED TO SAVE COST AND HAVE US DEAL WITH THIS RIDICULOUS PROBLEM.