Theres no heat going though the rad - Heating & Cooling

sounds wrong, consult a heating engineer

is there foam in the rad if so gearbox has go the cooling pipes run though the rad some times split and leak into the rad you may need recon gearbox and rad

Start it up, when it hits operating temp that the thermostat open,Have gloves on that you don,t get burn,t, Seaze the hoses from the rad going to the engine one at a time to check if antifreeze is flowing trough them, If you don,t feel any flow on the top one ,the water pump is shot, Or you can take off the rad cap, Before you fire the truck up, Start it end watch if it is circulateing though the rad, But i have seen to many people get scolded that way, The hose trick is a safer thing to do. (PS) There could be a blockage ,That is causeing it to over heat All So,

It may be a problem with your vent control system in your dash. You have a vacuum supply that comes from the top of your engine and travels through your firewall and under your dash to be used to activate the movement of your vent controls. If you have a break in this vacuum line, your vents will not move to change from cool to hot air regardless of where you put your control dial.
That could be your problem.......... or your heater core could be plugged. The core is a mini rad that is under your dash. It takes in hot engine coolant and acts as the heat source. This mini rad sometimes plugs up from ordinary use. Deposits slowly gather up and eventually clog up this rad making it useless. This rad may need to be replaced. Even though your pipes going under your dash are hot, the flow is probably very very slow and not giving enough flow to create heat for you inside your car.
You maybe able to flush out the mini rad by waiting till the engine is cold, then disconnect both hoses under the hood going under the dash, blow out most of the coolant remaining in the heater core(if you can)( also be careful of your eyes) then block one of the lines and put some rad flush through the other line(use a funnel with a hose attached). Leave it there for a while then try running water through it with a garden hose. Be careful to not splash the rad flush fluid in your eyes(wear safety glasses and also wear gloves. Repeat if you feel. Try to flush out as much of the rad flush as you can before reattaching the hoses. Remember to add some coolant cause you will lose some. It would be better to add coolant to the heater core before you attach the hoses to get most of the air out of the system. Good luck

Make sure the air is bled from the upstairs rads.
[air = top of rad is cold & bottom hot]

If you need to balance the rads to maintain an even flow through all then :-
Turn off all rads [one valve fully open and the other closed] Get heat going and open each rad valve, in turn, about 1 or 2 turns. Start with upstairs. The position you need to get to is when the return pipe fron each rad is a few degrees below the flow pipe. Adjust each rad valve to get this effect a few times may be necessary

it could be a loos hose clip or the water pump, there is a gasket behind the water pump this could be leaking as well there is a quick fix you could try if its a clip or gasket leaking it should stop the leak,but it wont stop a water pump leaking ,,,,,,,,,,,
get some "rad seal" and tip it into the rad,,,not the header tank it go's right into the rad then top it up with water and run up the engine itll its hot after a short time the leak should stop,,fords put it in all there new cars and vans that come out there fatctorise,, so if its good for them to use it,, it must work?

Remove and raise upper hose at thermostat end and remove lower rad hose.
Fill rad with a hose and watch for flow from bottom rad hose and/ or bottom rad hose connecton.......water should fall though rad easily.
Honda rads are cheap.....any restriction....replace rad.

Remove thermostat....fill thermostat housing with hose and watch for water flow at bottom rad hose.
Flush good.

Remove heater hoses.......flush back and forth until a good flow is present "With heater control set to hot" if no or poor flow....replace heater core.

Stop leak can plug everything.

Also.......not likely causing over heating....but ....at your mileage,if you do not know if the timing belt has been changed.....CHANGE IT NOW!
Water pump is optional at this mileage.

Flush rad & change coolant & thermostat. Check operation of rad fan, & make sure it is coming on when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Be sure to bleed air out good when refilling rad/cooling system. Start engine & turn heater on when refilling & let rad fan come on & off at least 2 or 3 times before putting cap back on rad, and refill rad as needed as you do this. then fill return bottle to proper level & see what happens.

rads not heating could be down to old system ie pipework etc and sludge building up. r there any cold spots on rads? when boiler turning off do u mean going to reset? if so could be over heat prob at boiler . there should be a pressure pipe coming from boiler going to outside if its a combi. if this is leaking your expansion vessel might need re charged as this is where the water will be going.

Did you run the engine with rad cap off & heater (not defrost) on while topping up the coolant. If not, do it & let it run that way until your rad fan comes on & off about 3 times, then top rad up to a inch or 2 from top, and put cap back on, & check level in return bottle.