Tub wont turn jammed

Sometimes the steering lock jams if side pressure is applied to the steering as the key is removed, does the key feel solid? Try rattling the steering wheel from side to side while trying to turn the key, this takes pressure off the lock pin, might work, good luck

If it is a front loading machine:
If you lift on the inner tub from the inside of it the outer tub should raise with it. They should feel pretty solidly like one unit. If there is a sloppiness to it at all the tub bearings are shot or the Spider bracket is busted.
If the inner and outer tub feel solidly together look for a sock between the inner and outer tub. They can roll and twist up and cause real havoc.

If it's a top loading machine:
Check for wiggle of inner and outer tub. If no wiggle check for sock as above.

Let me know.

Either the Brake is stuck in locked position. Check if both rear wheels are locked and won't turn.

Or the Wheel bearing is jammed and needs replacement.

hello,

Check the draining system for clogs and kinks. First, check the draining hose in back of the washing machine. In Whirlpool models, this hose easily becomes kinked and can block the flow of water. Check the lint filter for clogs. Finally, check the side-check valve, which is located at the tub outlet.

2 Run the washer through a cycle with nothing in the tub. One of the common symptoms of a jammed Whirlpool motor is a nonrotating tub and a burned smell. The belt that powers the pump produces the smell. When the pump gets jammed, the belt begins to split off, causing friction and the burned smell. If you have these symptoms and find a damaged or broken belt, always replace the pump along with the belt. Otherwise, you will damage a new belt instead of fixing the problem.

3 Check for objects in the drain tubes and pump. To get to the pump and hoses, manually drain the tub and unscrew the back panel. Detach the hoses with a wrench and feel inside them for debris. If you cannot find anything in the hoses, feel inside the pump inlets and outlets with piers and remove any debris

thanks

Good day! There are things you need to check to successfully connect the printer for wireless connection.
1. Make sure the wifi light on the printer is solid orange before continuing. If not, go to Setup > Network Setup > Reset Network Adapter to Defaults. Wifi light should turn off, then wait for it to turn solid orange.
2. WEP key can be ASCII or HEX(hexadecimal) depending on what was assigned to it. You may be using an incorrect WEP key. Just to make sure, access your router setup page and double-check the WEP key assigned to it. If you don't know how to access the router setup page, you can always ask assistance from either your internet service company or the router's manufacturer.
Once you get the correct WEP key and wifi light solid orange on the printer, try connecting the printer again for wireless connection. Good luck!

without having to dismantle front seal you could try removing the hose connected to water pump and rotating drum by hand using a piece of wire try to move ring towards the opening it may work if the ring is not jammed if so you will have to dismantle the front seal and get it that way good luck

Try turning the spin basket, something may have jammed itself inside the tub. You can remove the front kick panel and remove the tub to pump hose to clean it out.
If ok, you might have other problems like a broken belt in the back.

If there is a drain issue, sometimes there is an obvious solution. Check the drain hose for any kinks, as well as checking any lint filters in or on the drain hose. Is there a lint sock on the end that's full? Perhaps the drain line itself is plugged. You will want to make sure that the house drain system is not backed up or plugged. Always make sure that the washer drain hose is above the level of water in the drain tub. Some Whirlpool/Kenmore washers make use of a side-check valve near the tub outlet which may get clogged. A standpipe should be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter, and never seal a drain hose into a standpipe. This can lead to back-siphoning. You also want to make sure that the standpipe is less than 96 inches in height.
Pump problems show various symptoms. Sometimes the pump will lock up and seize. If the motor is running, it will continue to try to turn the pump. In the case of belt-driven pumps, the belt may break or burn through. The pulley may shear off. If there is enough tension on the belt, and the motor continues to try to turn it, you may wind up with a seized motor as well. The pump itself may have seized bearings, be jammed by clothing or another object; or the impeller blades may be broken off. The usual fix is to replace the pump.
If you think your pump may be jammed, drain out your tub and remove the hoses. Look inside the hoses and see if there are any obstructions. Feel around inside the pump inlets for anything that may be jamming the pump itself. You can also use long-nosed pliers to feel around inside the pump for any items that may be causing a jam. If you haven't found a jam, and you still believe there may be a jam in the pump, you can completely remove the pump from the washer and inspect it more closely.
Occasionally, transmission gears may become worn, or some other internal part may go bad. Some older washer models have an electric-mechanical shifter. If it won't shift, it's best to call a professional appliance repair person to address this issue. If your transmission is leaking oil, there are really only two options at this point, either run it until it dies completely, or replace it now.

If there is a drain issue, sometimes there is an obvious solution. Check the drain hose for any kinks, as well as checking any lint filters in or on the drain hose. Is there a lint sock on the end that's full? Perhaps the drain line itself is plugged. You will want to make sure that the house drain system is not backed up or plugged. Always make sure that the washer drain hose is above the level of water in the drain tub. Some Whirlpool washers make use of a side-check valve near the tub outlet which may get clogged. A standpipe should be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter, and never seal a drain hose into a standpipe. This can lead to back-siphoning. You also want to make sure that the standpipe is less than 96 inches in height. Pump problems show various symptoms. Sometimes the pump will lock up and seize. If the motor is running, it will continue to try to turn the pump. In the case of belt-driven pumps, the belt may break or burn through. The pulley may shear off. If there is enough tension on the belt, and the motor continues to try to turn it, you may wind up with a seized motor as well. The pump itself may have seized bearings, be jammed by clothing or another object; or the impeller blades may be broken off. The usual fix is to replace the pump.
If you think your pump may be jammed, drain out your tub and remove the hoses. Look inside the hoses and see if there are any obstructions. Feel around inside the pump inlets for anything that may be jamming the pump itself. You can also use long-nosed pliers to feel around inside the pump for any items that may be causing a jam. If you haven't found a jam, and you still believe there may be a jam in the pump, you can completely remove the pump from the washer and inspect it more closely.
Occasionally, transmission gears may become worn, or some other internal part may go bad. Some older washer models have an electric-mechanical shifter. If it won't shift, it's best to call a professional appliance repair person to address this issue. If your transmission is leaking oil, there are really only two options at this point, either run it until it dies completely, or replace it now.

If there is a drain issue, sometimes there is an obvious solution. Check the drain hose for any kinks, as well as checking any lint filters in or on the drain hose. Is there a lint sock on the end that's full? Perhaps the drain line itself is plugged. You will want to make sure that the house drain system is not backed up or plugged. Always make sure that the washer drain hose is above the level of water in the drain tub. Some Whirlpool washers make use of a side-check valve near the tub outlet which may get clogged. A standpipe should be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter, and never seal a drain hose into a standpipe. This can lead to back-siphoning. You also want to make sure that the standpipe is less than 96 inches in height. Pump problems show various symptoms. Sometimes the pump will lock up and seize. If the motor is running, it will continue to try to turn the pump. In the case of belt-driven pumps, the belt may break or burn through. The pulley may shear off. If there is enough tension on the belt, and the motor continues to try to turn it, you may wind up with a seized motor as well. The pump itself may have seized bearings, be jammed by clothing or another object; or the impeller blades may be broken off. The usual fix is to replace the pump.
If you think your pump may be jammed, drain out your tub and remove the hoses. Look inside the hoses and see if there are any obstructions. Feel around inside the pump inlets for anything that may be jamming the pump itself. You can also use long-nosed pliers to feel around inside the pump for any items that may be causing a jam. If you haven't found a jam, and you still believe there may be a jam in the pump, you can completely remove the pump from the washer and inspect it more closely.
Occasionally, transmission gears may become worn, or some other internal part may go bad. Some older washer models have an electric-mechanical shifter. If it won't shift, it's best to call a professional appliance repair person to address this issue. If your transmission is leaking oil, there are really only two options at this point, either run it until it dies completely, or replace it now.