Oven doesn't heat up at all on Convection bake but will heat up on regular bake but at a reduced temperature (ie; set for 425 is actually 325 based on thermometer. Any ideas for what may be wrong?

If the button in question is on the top left of the control panel, this is for Automatic Convection Bake. This is the control panel picture, http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Whirlpool_Use_and_Care_Guide_-_9782476-011 ; the word Convection is below the top pair of buttons with Auto to the left. Set the oven temperature to the regular setting for your food. The oven will reduce the temperature to the appropriate temperature for baking with the convection fan running. You do need to check the food more frequently. See http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Whirlpool_Use_and_Care_Guide_-_9782476-016 .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

I would check the oven sensor it may be defective

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

I will say that is the control board that is not working properly. Have you try to unplugged for phew minutes?, this will reset the current settings. If not, I will star replacing the control board. Good Luck!.

Replace the sensor

The thermostat is the cause of the problem, normally the the only cure is to replace the oven thermostat,completely, or alternatively, compensate by setting a lower temperature when cooking.
this will work o/k if it is always the same variation in temperature across the range .

F2 During BAKE Control senses oven temperature above 615F-630F If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit , not actual oven temperature. F2 During CLEAN C ontrol senses oven temperature above 915F-930F If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective. Check door lock switches.

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit , not actual oven temperature.

I would suggest that you check the oven element, it sounds as though it is faulty to me.

WHAT WAS HAPPENING AT 1ST YOUR HI-LIMIT TERMAL SAFETY OR OVEN TEMP SENSOR FELT THAT THE OVEN WAS GET TOO HOT AND SEIZING OPERATION UNTIL SAFE TEMP WERE OBTAINED THIS IS GENERALLY A FAULTY OVEN TEMP SENSOR. I WOULD ADVISE YOU TO CONTACT A CERTIFIED TECH TO LOOK AT IT AND P.S. DON'T MENTION THAT YOU TOOK THE MACHINE APART MOST SERVICE COMPANIES WILL NOT SERVICE THE MACHINE IF IT BEEN TAMPER WITH BY THE CUSTOMER DUE TO INSURANCE AND LIABILITIES

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/marlon_56d9a24f02585258

I have just checked the baking guide in the manual and have found that it may not be us after all. (Maybe this is why they telll us to read the whole manual. Well, I never have) According to the cooking time for Baking, the range is very extensive. For example, an angel cake at 350 could take from 28-50 minutes, buscuits at 375-400 could take 8-16 minutes, layer cakes at 350-375 could take 25-40 minutes, pound cakes at 325-350 could take 45-70 minutes and fresh pies at 400-450 could take 35-60 minutes. Basically, the baking directions on the box means absolutely nothing to use Amana oven owners. We have no choice but to cook our food or baked goods until they are cooked, whenever that may be. :) Linda

Question: does the unit appear to hold the correct temperature? Most convection units only turn the heating elements on and off...not the fan. If the unit is reporting operating temp and then taking other direction...and it is cooking right...you're done.