My out let has 2 black wires and 2 white wires and no ground. The out that I purchased has 2 black wires on the back I know where the white and black. Wires. Go from the wall. .**** what do I do with. The too black wires on the. Outlet itself (plug) thank you

ground circuit fault interuptors must be wired to four wires
see: http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/gfci-outlet-switch-wiring.html

Hello! The back up light circuit is stand alone...Power is fed via the back up light switch to both the left and right lamp on a Red/White wire...Ground is fed by a White/Black wire...The back up light switch receives power from a 10 a fuse ( Gauge Fuse) on a Black/Orange wire... So, 12 volts from the gauge fuse on Black/Orange...through the switch on a Red/White to both back up lights...Ground to lights via a White/Black...Using an ohm meter with power off...Set on X10 scale...check the Red/White to ground...It must read open...if you read any resistance on that wire it will blow the fuse...Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

you got the wires you need. add switch's white to the white bundle in the back; green to grounds, red to the black going to the light; black to the other black. worked for me!

I've tested these timers.
Here's what to do:
1) Connect green to bare copper
2) Switch has 2 wires. For now, connect these two wires to timer-black and timer-red. Choose either one.
3) In back of wall box are white neutral wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Timer-white wire connects to these white neutral wires. This action gives power to time clock.
4) If wall box does not have white neutrals described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground wire. Bare ground connects to neutral busbar in breaker box.
5) Turn on power and click manual override button or switch. If lights turn on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not turn on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Are you trying to wire a pool pump?
I found manuals at the Haywood site > I saw nothing for K48m2n11b or anything close to that number
http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/products/manuals.cfm

But lets work on the problem and see if I can give you some help:

After opening a few manual and searching for the word 'volt' and 'pump' ... each manual talks about 'pumps' generically, as if the pump is a separate purchase item.

Lower down on the manual page they have a list of pool pumps. A search for the word 'volt' inside the pump manuals says 'match supply voltage to motor nameplate voltage.'

As you know, each electric device has a label showing voltage, wattage, etc. Your pump should show 120Volts or 240V. I didn't see any mention of 3 phase wiring, so I assume your Haywood pump runs on typical residential wiring? And that you are not using 440Volt or 3 phase.

The 120Volt pump will have a black, white and bare ground.
The 240Volt pump will probably have a black, white, red and bare ground
The 240Volt pump could have a black white and bare ground

First the 120V pump:
The 120Volt line from your breaker box will have a black Hot wire, white Neutral wire and bare ground >>> this wire connects color-to-color with pool pump

Next the 240V pump with black, white, red and bare ground
a) The 240Volt line from your breaker box can have the same 4 wires, in which case they connect color-to-color
b) The 240Volt line from your breaker box could have a black white and bare ground, in which case the black goes to black, the white goes to red, the bare coppers are connected, the white pump wire is capped off and not used. If pump does not operate with this wiring, another line from the breaker with wires that match pump might be necessary.

The 240V pump with black white and bare ground
a) The 240Volt line from breaker can have black, white, red and bare ground, in which case the black goes to black, the red goes to white, bare grounds are connected, the white wire is capped off
b) The 240Volt line from from breaker can have black white and bare ground, and this connects color-to-color to the pump

HOW do you know if line from breaker is 120V or 240V?
If you know which breaker wire is connected to, then it's easy
If you do not know which breaker
-turn off power
-separate wires so they can be tested
-use ordinary tester
-stand on dry boards
-tape tester leads to sticks so hands are away from power

-turn on power
-test each wire to bare copper
-tester lights up on Hot wire
-120V line will have 1 Hot wire
-240V line will have 2 Hot wires

Are you trying to connect your range to a 3-wire source, using a 4-wire cord? I'm a little confused on your symptoms. Normally you have a 2 HOT leads and a NEUTRAL/GROUND (3-wire) in older homes. In newer homes you have 2 HOT leads, a separate NEUTRAL and a separate GROUND (4-wire).

The following link explains the difference between the two configurations and how they should be correctly wired:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord

New construction homes built after the year 2000 REQUIRE the use of a 4-wire plug and are usually readily wired at the receptacle to accommodate. If your existing receptacle already has a 3-wire configuration you do not need to re-wire it, however. The easiest solution would be to purchase a 3-wire power cord that matches the receptacle you have.

Read through the link provided and post back and let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps you solve your problem.

There should be a small junction box under the dishwasher behind the front toe panel. There should be three wires:

BLACK - HOT (120VAC)
WHITE - NEUTRAL (0 VAC)
GREEN - GROUND

You can purchase a three conductor power cord from any hardware store. A 3-prong power tool power cord works the best, as they have a durable outer sheathing and have good current handling properties.

Simply match the corresponding colors (black to black, white to white) and ground the green wire to the chassis. There should be a ground lug somewhere to connect it to.

Use wire lugs when splicing wires together and use the wire strain relief (if equipped) on the junction box. The strain relief is located at the point where the wire enters the junction box and keeps the wires from inadvertently being pulled.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

You need to purchase an oven appliance cord that will fit your outlet. the cord will have directions on how to hook it up under your circumstances. If you want more information get back, I will help you.

if you were to wire it into the orange it will kill the motor.
do you get spark with kill switch on? if so definately wrong.

most kill switches go inline to the coil.

get some fresh fuel and try

hi thanks for the question the white wire is common the red & black are live join the red & black with a wire nut now you have really 2 wires thanks the appliance doc