I have connected the timer to the power source etc as directed. The red light comes on, indicating there is power--my model does not have a timer "on/off" switch so I cannot begin programming, and I cannot get my outdoor lights to come on. My old switch--not a timer, uses only two connections, hot and out tot he fixtures.

Codes to check with ILO TV are: 0198 1070 1024 1023 . Keep in mind that.
If one code do not match with your TV, try an other code only after switch OFF the TV by its Main Power On/Off switch, and switch it back again.
Direct Code Entry

1. Press and hold the SETUP button until the red indicator stays on, then release the SETUP button.
2. Press and release the desired Mode button (TV, VCR, etc.). The red indicator blinks, then stays lit.
3. Enter the 4 digit code from the code tables. Note: after a valid code entry, the red indicator turns off. For an invalid code, the red indicator flashes.
4. With your device on, press CHANNEL UP. If the device responds, no further programming is required. Note: If some buttons do not operate your device, try one of the other codes for your brand.

Code Search
If after trying "Direct Code Entry" your device does not respond, or if your brand is not listed, try doing a search of the code library for your code by following these steps.

1. Manually turn on the device (TV, VCR, etc.) to be controlled.
2. Press and hold the SETUP button until the red indicator stays on, then release the SETUP button.
3. Press and release the desired Mode button (TV, VCR, etc.). The red indicator blinks once, then stays on.
4. Press the CHANNEL UP button repeatedly (up to 300 times) until the device to be controlled changes channel. The red indicator blinks, then stays lit.
5. Press and release MUTE to install the code. The indicator light goes off.

Most users will want to store VCR codes under the VCR button, Cable codes under CBL, etc. If you want to store a VCR code under CBL, etc., first follow the procedure for Direct Code Entry and press CBL in step 2 of Direct Code Entry, then enter ANY VCR code in step 3 of Direct Code Entry. Then follow the steps above for Code Search.

Normally, timers need to have a seperate power source for operations besides the power source it is controlling. Two posts should read "clock" for the timers power source. The other power source that is being controlled uses "line" for the incoming and "load" for the Hot water tank. Hope this helps.

1) You performed correct troubleshoot steps down the line.
Last thing would be to install defect timer on another light circuit in house, and see if problem is the timer or wire going to coach lights.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Intermatic-ej351c.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html

2) EJ351C has 1 year limited warranty.
Buy new EJ351c and install single pole light switch until timer replacement is available.
Timer has easy 2-wire installation. Turn off power. Connect new timer just like old one was connected. Either timer black wire connects to either wire in switch box.
http://www.smarthome.com/25077/Intermatic-EJ351C-24-Hour-Mechanical-In-Wall-Timer/p.aspx
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-EJ351C-Programmable-Mechanical-Security/dp/B000Q9YUGU

You posted under Intermatic EI210 countdown timer.
To confirm this is your product, open link below:
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-EI210-Electronic-Countdown-Minutes/dp/B001EE1J74
Manual with operation instructions appear on link below
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/ei220w%20-%20english.ashx

EI210 replaces single-pole switch only.
Single pole switch is where 1 switch controls the Load (light, fan, motor)

To wire this timer:
1) Single-pole switch has 2 insulated wires and 1 bare ground wire.
2) Connect insulated switch wires to timer red wire and timer black wire, in either order for now.
3) Connect timer green wire to bare ground wire.
4) In back of electric box are white wire that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer white wire to these wires. This will power electronics located inside the timer.
5) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer white wire to bare ground wire along with green wire.
6) Turn power ON. Press oval button. If indicator light turns ON, then timer is wired correctly. If indicator light does not come on, then reverse timer black wire and timer red wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-put-on-wire-nut.html

Add a comment if you need more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert gives you same instructions shown above via phone while you connect the device.

Mary Ann:

It appears that it will start flashing when you move from off to on. Here are the directions from the web site.

Gary

Move the control lever to the OFF-CLEAR position for about

20 seconds. The red indicator light will go off and any previous

time settings will be cleared from memory.

Move the control lever to the ON position. The Red indicator

light will start flashing.

Rotate the time dial clockwise at least one click, stopping at

the half hour nearest to the present time.

NOTE: During programming, be careful not to press the

dial while turning it. If you press the dial, you will accidentally

set a wrong time.

Press the dial once to set the present time. The Red indicator

light will go off.

Rotate the time dial clockwise to the first desired ON time.

The Red light will pulse momentarily with each click.

Press the dial once to enter the ON time. The light controlled

by the switch timer will turn ON.

Rotate the time dial clockwise to the desired OFF time.

Press the dial once to enter the OFF time. The light controlled

by the switch timer will turn OFF.

Repeat Steps 5-8 for each additional ON/OFF setting.

Continue to rotate the time dial until the Red indicator light

comes ON and stays ON, indicating that the switch timer is in

AUTOMATIC mode.

The timer is wired differently than the old spring-loaded timer.
This is because the timer has an electronic clock instead of a spring.
The electronic clock needs power just like an alarm clock.
The white wire powers the clock.

Here's the wiring.
Black-timer wire connects to Hot-wire-from-breaker
Red-timer connects to Load (attic fan)
White-timer connects to white Neutral
In absence of a Neutral, connect white-timer to bare ground.

If you have your black-timer and red-timer wires reversed, it might cause the symptoms you describe.
Simply reverse the black-timer and red-timer.

If you want to test your wires to make certain:
Remove timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away.
Power is ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
When tester lights up, that is hot-wire-from-breaker.
Now test hot-wire to each of the other wires (except ground)
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
Not every switch box will has a Neutral
In that case white-timer connects to ground

This sounds wrong. Normally Red would go to Live, Black to Neutral and White would go to the light but without more details of the model it's a guess

I just bought one today and installed it. It does the same thing - flashes the lights off and on. After some research on the net, it seems that the problem is that an old house is wired with two pole wiring and the new fixtures, (timers included) are 3 pole. The conclusion I have found is that it will not work in a 2 pole wired house. There supposedlly are timers available for 2 pole wiring. I hope this helps. If you find out anything different, please let me know.

I have same problem and called the manufacturer. They told me they are supposed to help and that these need to be installed by an electrician.

Glad I bought mine at a Menard's which is targeted to the general market.

I don't want to support a company that says things like that to their customers so I am bringing mine back.