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Power windows don't use fuse's , has circuit breakers
• PWR WDO CB 25A (fuse block) (System power for left and right windows 2-door vehicles. System power for LF and LR windows 4-door vehicles)
• PWR WDO CB 25A (IP wiring harness junction block) (System power for RF and RR windows 4-door vehicles)
Door Lock System Components
The power door lock system consists of the following components:
• The driver door module (DDM)
• The passenger door module (PDM)
• The body control module (BCM)
• The driver information center (DIC)
• The rear door lock switch
• The door lock relay
• The door unlock relay
• The liftgate lock relay--utility vehicles with liftgate only
• The reversible door lock actuators in each of the doors and liftgate
• LOCKS 20A fuse (rear lock/unlock relay supply voltage)
• ECC 10A fuse (liftgate lock relay supply voltage)
It sounds like you wired up the door locks incorrectly. You need relays to control your doorlocks. Follow the diagram in this link to wire up the relays.
From the plug in door lock harness of the Viper alarm (green and blue): the green lock wire goes to the red wire of the vehicle in the driver kick panel and the blue wire goes to the pink wire in the kick panel. The light green with black wire from the Viper alarm goes to the white wire in the drivers kick panel. This white wire is the factory alarm disarm wire. It tests with the key in the door cylinder. Turn the key to unlock the door and the wire should register ground.
The best way is to remove the door lock relay. this relay may be in one of these locations, The first is the right side kick panel, the next place to look is the right side of the dash behind side cover, if no side cover then look under right side of dash.
The last place is the glove box.
I have enclosed a wiring diagram also to help you . You will see the door lock module is also located in the same place as the relay. you can unplug module also.
IN wiring diagram you will see there is also three fuses that control parts of the door lock module, you can also remove them one at a time as you may sure that no other component is getting disabled.
I think the module or relay is the best bet. Good day.
Do you know anything about automotive electronic's , control module's , using a factory or professional scanner to communicate with said control modules ? Here is a list of componets involved in controlling the power windows ,lock's , driver an passenger door mirrors .
Power Window System Components
The power window system consists of the following components:
• Driver door module (DDM)
• Passenger door module (PDM)
• Body control module (BCM)
• LR power window switch
• RR power window switch
• Window up and window down relays in each of the rear passenger window switches
• Window lockout switch
• Reversible power window motors in each of the doors (circuit breaker protected)
• LT DOOR CB 25A (System power for left rear window)
• RT DOOR CB 25A (System power for right rear window)
The power door lock system consists of the following components:
• Driver Door Module (DDM)
• Passenger Door Module (PDM)
• Liftgate Module (LGM)
• Door lock relay
• Door unlock relay
• Body Control Module (BCM)
• Reversible door lock actuators in each of the doors
• LR/RR LOCKS 10A fuse (relay supply voltage)
• Door lock switches in driver and passenger doors (switches are integral components to the DDM and PDM)
I don't think the switch would be the problem , more then likely broken wire's inside the flex boot from the body to the driver's door . See this more often then the switch going bad . Just replacing parts could get expensive . I would think a power wire or a communicate network wire broke .
My locks tend to lock and unlock whenever they feel like.lThe BCM - body control module lock's an unlocks the doors using relay's . Could be a bad input to the BCM , switch , wiring etc.... Watch these videos Door Locks Go Crazy 1Door Locks Go Crazy 2 Door Locks Go Crazy 3
Finding wiring diagrams an testing the circuits is the only way you will be able to diagnose , you won't have the tool he used . lab scope . Check wiring inside the rubber boot from the body to the door's , for broken wire's .
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on body & accessories then under subsystem click power locks . Click the search button then the blue link .
The door lock wires for the Viper alarm are green (-)lock and blue (-) unlock. The Viper system only provides a negative lock/unlock pulse for the door locks. So, if you are working on a vehicle that has positive door locks you will have to install relays to change the polarity.
If you have a test light or voltmeter I'll try and walk you thru this.
How your system works is the switch has power to it from fuse 19 in the under dash fuse panel(15amp) on the WH/VT wire,this is the same on both switches.
when you go to the lock postion the drivers switch will get power on the VT wire and in the unlock postion it will get power on the LG wire. On the passenger switch in the lock postion it will get power on the PK/YEand in unlock on the PK/LG.
Now this will fed to the GEM module which piggy backs onto the fuse panel.Then the GEM will provide power and ground to the door lock actuators in the door.
Now if you have power leaving the switch like stated I would then remove one of the door panels to access one of the actuators. Then measure voltage and ground at the actuators while you activate the door lock switch.It should have power on one side and ground on the other in one postion then when you go to the other postion on the switch this should switch, previous wire that was hot should now be ground and previous ground should now be hot.
Make sure you test it for ground as well as power you can do this by hooking your test light to a power source instead of ground and when u get a ground of course it will light.
Now the test I just provided will eliminate the door lock switches and the door lock actuators. If you do not have the power and grounds as listed then the problem will be either wiring or GEM module.
:) Sending you a link for the wire info, as far as the bypass... the 451m is wrong.. I think you need something else, I send you a link to that as well...
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