Is the lower element suppose to have two legs of 120 to it? Or do i need to move a wire up top to make it 240? as it is on top element.

top element fried unless temp was met at time of test

Thermostat is rated 120-208-240-277 volts.
Element will work with any voltage too, no matter rating on label. It will burn at different temperatures at different voltaGES.
Any voltage should run water heater.
Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

Push in reset button.
Make sure tank was full of water before turning power ON. Or element will instantly burn out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

Are you testing voltage across top two screws on element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Upper-thermostat-w-wire-a-2.jpg
Or are you testing each leg to ground?
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-12.jpg

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Test elements,and if elements are good, replace both thermostats
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

2) Test across top two screws on upper thermostat for 240Volts.
If this test shows 240V, then no more voltage testing is needed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html#electric

3) Add comment Feb 2013 and say where you are so far

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If your top element is bad the the lower element will never turn on be cause the top element completes the 240 circuit. It is like a resister in a circuit. Make sure top element measures out at 13 ohms.

It sounds like upper or lower thermostat.
Thermostats turn off one leg (or one wire) in the 240Volt circuit, so each elements will test for 120V even when thermostat is off.
When thermostat turns ON, it closes circuit by adding the second leg to 240V circuit, and element turns ON.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html

Take 30 minutes and troubleshoot before replacing parts:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

You have electric water heater.
You replaced elements and thermostats but heater still won't work.
And tank was completely full of water, and water was running out of a faucet before turning power ON.
If elements are not fully immersed in water, they will instantly burn out.
If upper element is burned out, then tank will have NO hot water.
If lower element is burned out, and upper element is not burned out, then tank will have some hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

If elements did not burn out, then that leaves 1 main suspect: the electricity.

1) Push in ECO red reset button on upper thermostat. If ECO is tripped out, then heater will not work.

2) Click circuit breaker all the way one direction and then back the other direction to make sure breaker is latched.

3) If tank has 2 elements, then it is 240volt.
If 1 leg of 240Volt circuit is not working, then 240V appliance will not work.
240Volt circuit needs both hot wires to complete the circuit:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240

Buy cheap multimeter from Home Center and set dial to 240-250-277VAC
Tape tester leads to woods sticks to keep hands away from power.
Power is ON
Test across top 2 screws on upper element should show 220-240 volts.
If you have 240 at top two screws, then skip down to step 6.
If no reading across top two screws, then move to top of tank.

4) Open connection point where wire connects to heater.
Test across both insulated wires should get reading of 220-240 volts.
If no reading, move to circuit breaker box.

5) Mark water heater breaker.
Turn off all breakers except water heater breaker and main breaker. (and breaker to light fixture where box is located)
Do not hold or touch or lean against anything metal.
Stand on dry boards and wear dry clothes.
If main breaker is OFF, the big wires that connect to main breaker are still HOT.

Remove box cover.
240Volt breaker has 2 wires connected with screws.
Test across both screws for 240Volt.
See if wires are loose.
If there is no reading, then breaker is not working on one leg.
To double check, move water heater wires to another same-size 240V breaker and then put ear against water heater to listen for bubbly-fizzing sound.

6) If you are getting 240 to water heater, then wire inside tank could be loose.
Do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer.

First of all, you have 240V water heater because tank has two elements.
You have no hot water, and tank has power to upper element.
Lower element has no power.

Something doesn't sound right.
You're not testing correctly.

Before doing anything, test across top two screws of upper element for 240Volts.
This will eliminate electrical problem as suspect.
Breaker must deliver 120V on both legs to complete the 240V circuit.
Every single-phase household circuit takes 2 wires to complete the circuit.
With 120V you need 1 neutral wire and 1 hot wire to complete circuit.
With 240V you need 2 hot wires, one from each hot busbar, to complete circuit.
Your water heater can appear to have electricity if breaker is delivering power on one leg of the 240V circuit.
To check breaker for sure, move wires to another similar size breaker to see if water heater functions properly.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

If 240V circuit is good, then next thing is take 30 minutes and do full test of water heater parts.
This will identify exact problem(s) without guessing.
Buy 5$ multimeter from Home Depot. Install battery.
When test calls for continuity, rotate dial to Ohms (upside down horseshoe is ohms).
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate dial to 240-250-277 VAC
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more help.

120V on each screw terminal of the top or upper thermostat. Rheem use and care manual.

The incoming voltage should be 220-240. Check voltage across terminal that power supply is hooked to.Each incoming leg should read 120 to ground and 240 across . Check to see that thermostat is turned up to highest setting,usually 140 degrees,and check reset button to make sure it stays in in position. If you push reset in and it pops right back out you probably have a bad element. Check elements by going across terminals when you know element should be on.Hope this helps you. Thanks

The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!