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SEVERAL THINGS TO LOOK AT, WITH A MULTI METER CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT, THE HI-LO THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL CUT LOCATED ON THE HEATER, NOT THE THERMAL SHUT OFF, ALSO CHECK FOR FULL 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINAL AND OUTLET? IF UR ONLY GETTING 120 YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH POWER TO RUN MOTOR BUT NOT THE HEATER.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in. Sometimes
the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the
case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or
replaced.
2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the
door switch if found defective.
Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a
dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door
switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and
the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.
Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch
assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there
is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and
just the lever.
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
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