Unit has been working flawlessly for about two months. Suddenly, tonight the pump would not shut off after pumping the sump dry. I removed the pump from the sump and wiped off the genius switch even though there was little, if anything on it. I reinstalled the pump, plugged it in and the pump started pumping again, even though the sump was empty. After unplugging it several times, it finally would not try to pump out the empty sump. Do I have a faulty switch?

I imagine you asked the plumber why the pump is running continuously and he replied as you said but what he simply meant was, because water is in the sump. I'll address pump switch failure later.

So the question should be why is water continually entering the sump. It could be because the water table level is high but its been my experience a sump pump runs nonstop because water expelled by the pump is flowing directly back into the sump.

Have you asked neighbors if their pumps run nonstop? Do you have continuous standing water around your home?

If you don't have standing water around your home and your neighbors dont have the problem with their sump pumps running nonstop then the most likely cause is the pump outlet is flowing back into the sump. In other words, its continuously recirculating the same water.

Here's how I"ve diagnosed this issue in the past. Install a temporary 1 1/2 inch pvc line to discharge the pump outlet on the ground a minimum 20 feet from the house foundation on ground with a downward slope. This gets the pump outlet far enough away from the house that water should not re-enter the house sump. If your pump then cycles normally, you know the problem is because water from the pump outlet is reentering the sump. Then it's a matter of determining why the original pump outlet is flowing back into the sump.

As for pump failures... most sump pumps are not designed for continous duty and the switches are of marginal quality. I alleviated the switch issue by zip tying the switch float of the pump up so it is always on and installed a seperate sump float switch that will last longer than the original.

what size is the sump? Is it for waste or seepage? What is the make and model of the unit and the float switch?

Pre-Twin Cam motors have a check ball (#11 in illustration below):

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_S3nmiD7Aiw/TZ5U_VVapEI/AAAAAAAADDM/6m98aYAzxjI/s1600/DSC04354a.jpg

S&S oil pumps operate on the same principal as stock Harley.
This ball and it's cast-in seat can wear over time, and/or get some crud in there, allowing oil to leak past it when the engine is off (gravity fed).

Remove screw cap and remove check ball (a small magnet works great).
Check to see if there is a wear "ring" around it.
Clean it off, and the seat it seals against.
Sometimes, it wears to the point that it needs replaced.

When oil leaks past it over an extended time (like a couple of months), the oil collects in the sump of the engine crankcase.
When you first start the engine, being a "dry" sump engine (the scavenger side of the oil pump is almost TWICE the capacity as the feed side), the oil pump right away tries to send as much of the extra oil back to the oil tank, but some is going to come out the breather(s), and maybe even burn in the combustion chamber.

If this is the case, here's a quick check:

Before starting, check and note oil level in tank.
After starting and running for a bit (5-10 minutes), shut off the motor and recheck the oil level in the oil tank.
If it has risen noticablly, the above is your problem.

This is not as bad as it looks, the Pump motor is more challenging. If your sump needs to be replaced then do the following. Unplug the unit, shut off the water, and remove the racks. Next remove the wash pipe that goes from the sump to up the back and over the top, it just pulls out but be gentle. Next remove all the screws on top of the screen and pull that out. You will see a gasket seal that is either stretched or broken. Next remove the white Pump wheel by turning the screw clockwise (the threads are reversed so it does not unscrew when the pump is running). Now pull up on the grey plastic wash pump housing. You will see the grinding blade that pulls off the wash pump motor shaft. There is your sump. If you need to change the pump you'll have to turn the unit over. Chances are all you'll need to do is really clean out the sump and replace the stretched out seals, available online for about 15.00 or so. Reassemble and start washing. good luck.

Flotec website shows several submersible sump pumps, and pump types:
http://www.flotecpump.com/asp/productapplication.asp?AId=28

Click product, then click on 'parts and literature' to access manual
Here is a Flotec manual:
http://www.flotecpump.com/pdf/FP525%2811-1-06%29.PDF

Manual for this type of sump pump says:
Quote from manual: Automatic float switch is sealed and factory adjusted for
most home sumps. Turn-on water level is 10" - 12" above
pump base. Turn-off water level is 4" - 6".

The manual also says that running the pump when dry will ruin the seals.
This implies that the water level setting is set so the seals will not be damaged

You might be able to dig the sump deeper, but I don't know if that meets your objective.

Hi,

Firstly i would try and establish if the unit is on a gravity drain or a pumped drain.

1. If the drain is gravity it means the condensate water will flow with gravity normally straight through the wall, so check for blockages outside and inside, the unit may look clean but if it hasn't been serviced there may be a build up of dirt in the drain.

So try and locate the outlet of the drain outside (normally by the refrigeration pipework to condenser) and attach a wet hoover to it and make a good seal, this will **** any water/dirt out of the drain line.

2.If its on a pump, a small water pump which collects the condensate in a sump and then pumps it away when a float is activated. (Normally fitted if a gravity drain option is unavailable).
You can check to see if the sump is full and overflowing which is an indication the pump/float has failed and will req replacing by an A/C company. Or the PVC drain line is blocked with dirt.
The pump is either located behind the unit in the casing, or in the white trunk containing the refrigeration pipework

All the best

If the sump (where you catch the water) was dry, your pump might be air bound.

You say it will not shut off but you dont say if it is pumping. My guess it is is not. You have a local switch, i.e. integral to the pump, right? Not a float switch.

Do this, fill the sump, make sure the switch opening is clear (it works on water pressure) and make sure there is no air trapped inthe pump housing.

I hope this helps.

In my bar situation, I use a float switch and I pump up about 2 feet where the water goes into a stand pipe equipped with a vent. The stand pipe feeds into a hose and leads to a sump elsewhere in the basement where the water is pumped over the side (sorry, that was the sailor in me coming out).

Can you replace the switch? If not, you can wire in a new generic float switch for far less than purchasing a new pump. A decent hardware or electrical supply house should have a float switch and they should be able to help you wire it or you can Google float switch installation to get an idea of how to do it yourself (it is not too complicated).

i hope this helps
matthew

I'm assuming the switch in Question is a Float-switch that is positioned in-line of the Power-supply to the Pump. The hinge that activates the switch inside the Float could be faulty. You can check it by connecting a dif-
ferent device to the plug, activate the switch
(Float upright) and deactivate (Float horizontal)
Mounting the switch with zip ties is a good
idea.The Float should be dangeling about 3"
above the Pumphead, thus keeping it submersed. Hope it helps.

The auto shut off will work when you have your bucket in, as well when you have met the humidy level which you have chosen. Try changing the setting.

Sgt 48