When i start cutting it is fine. after about 3-5 minutes the chain seems to bind and you can not turn it with your hand. have new chain,bar,rear sprocket chain rides in. does this sound like a clutch problem?

something is pinching the chain when you have the side cover on. either the bar isn't sitting flush to the saw or you don't have the chain in the sprocket correctly and that is causing it to bind

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kelly_69a0cf1b13789df1

Had this happen to mine when I was limbing stuff that was too small. I know better. There is probably a burr on one or more of the guide portion of the links where they run in the bar. This causes that link to be tight in the bar at this point. The chain probably hit something on the body of the saw when it flew off. Take the bar off the saw and run the chain through the groove in the bar. If you have any links with nicks, they will bind, causing the chain to stick and not run freely. Once you've identified the problem links you can remove the nicks using 120 grit paper backed up with a flat piece of steel so you only remove the high spots.

Is this a self propelled? Since it will run, blade spinning, the bar you are mentioning to start cutting is for the self propelled drive. The terrible squeaking is probably the belt slipping due to something causing the wheel to bind. Check for the ability to turn the drive wheel by hand. Then check under the cover for any binding.

I hope this helps you out.

Overheating the chain/bar is usually caused by insufficient oil getting to the chain, but can be caused by the chain being too tight to begin with (you should be able to turn the chain by hand), grit in the chain groove, or a poorly sharpened chain. The saw has an oil volume adjustment screw on the lower part of the case near the chain return area. Turning it CCW should increase oil flow. Oil volume can be judged by running the saw tip at speed near some cardboard for a moment--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Chain sharpening condition can be judged by the sawdust residue coming from the cut--if a powder-like material, the teeth are not sharp or are improperly filed. You should not have to bear down excessively on the saw to make it cut quickly. Hope some of this helps!

Two things that can cause this problem. 1. Your carburetor is not set properly and is not letting the engine get enough fuel under a load. 2. Your chain is binding when you put the chain bar down on the log. Make sure your front chain sproket is turning free and is not too sloppy.

Usually, angled cutting is caused by heavy wear of the chain groove on the bar as well as the outer edges of the top and bottom of the bar which flare out when worn (file the extra metal off @ about 45 degrees). With all-new components, chain tooth shape may be incorrect (usually caused by faulty filing technique) due to a manufacturing defect. Make sure the chain is properly tensioned--it should be tight to the bar, but able to be turned by hand. Hope this helps!

White smoke is usually associated with burning antifreeze in an automobile engine, but in this case, trying to cut wet wood might be suspect. The chain must be properly sharpened and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run of chain. When the chain is properly adjusted, it should not droop from the lower edge of the bar, but no so tight that you can't turn it by hand. Forcing a poor cutting chain into the kerf will overheat the chain and cause it to become loose quickly. Hope this helps!

If you are having difficulty fitting the drive links into the bar groove, the chain binds or rides up when rotated there may be burrs on the drive links. These often form if the chain comes off while at speed. use a file on the drive link flats to remove them.


Chain Adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They do not need these really loose - finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH

Lou

All things are possible but it isn't likely the bar is bent. Are you getting fairly large chips or sawdust? Try raising the rear of the saw a little when she quits cutting. so you have a small contact area instead of a wide flat cut. Run a flat file at an angle along both edges of the bar to remove any wire edge. Let me know what you find you have piqued my curiosity. Lou

Sounds like the chain brake may be causing it.