NO PARTS REQUIRED!!! DON'T PAY FOR A SERVICE CALL!!! After a power outage, my wife's grandmother said she could
no longer set her over to 300, 400, 450, whatever.. I went over to troubleshoot. I couldn't figure out why everything seemed functional and
why I couldn't set the over to higher than 288 (and thought, that's a rather
odd number)... until I realized that
that 288 degrees C = 550 degrees F which is the max the oven can do. The power outage reset the computed back to Celsius instead
of Farenheit (had to change it back to Farenheit). Saved them a ton of money... cause this could have been an
easy cash grab to some crook out there.
How do you reset the computed back to Farenheit instead of Celsius??
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SOURCE: Frigidaire Electric Slide-in Range - Oven Flash
Richard, sounds like you did all the pretests. You'll need a new display panel. When you work on it, be sure to cut the power.
SOURCE: frigidaire code F1
Rainbow, F1 could be one of three things. The loud pop doesn't sound good. 1. Shorted keypad-replace the control. 2. The control sensed a runaway oven temp. In this case you would have to ohm out the temp probe. 3. The control itself may have a shorted relay-replace the control. The temp probe should ohm at approx 1100 ohms at room temp. Unplug the oven for one minute, if the code returns, first ohm the temp sensor (probe) if that checks ok, replace the control..Catriver
SOURCE: 1998 frigidaire wall oven intermittant f1 code
F0 & F1 EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure Replace EOC (Electronic Oven Control)
SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave
SOURCE: we have a f10 error code on our electric range
F10 is thermal runaway. The RTD is most likely bad. Open the oven door and look in the upper corners you will see a little metal rod protruding from the back of the oven, this is the RTD or resistive temperature device. A local parts store should have these.
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