I have a fridgidaire range model #CFEF372BC2 was using electrical outlet - went dead - is there a reset or in line fuse to fix problem - flipping breaker did not help

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:



Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:
Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

Hello amshresta - It could be as simple as a damaged cord or something more complicated that requires the help of a professional. I recommended contacting a certified technician to further diagnose any root problems.

This should help any further assistance please feel free to contact me.

WHIRLPOOL
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes Non Y-Line
NOTE: Not valid for Y line. If there is a Y near the end of your model number, do not use this chart.
Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair 4 Digit Failure Code F0 - E0 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display re-appears - replace control F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC) F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC) F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor or oven temperature sensor fuse opened Replace oven temperature sensor or fuse F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace component 2 Digit Failure Code F0 or F1 or F5 Failed transistor Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC) F2 - E0 Oven temp too high 1. Test operation of door lock on self-clean models
2. Test relay contact operation
3. High resistance in oven temperature sensor F3 Open oven temperature sensor or thermal fuse Replace oven temperature sensor or thermal fuse F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F6 Problem in time keeping circuit 1. Reset time and/or cooking operation
2. Check for proper ground F7 Stuck function switch or button on Electronic Range Control (ERC) Replace ERC (Electronic Range Control/Clock) F8 Failure Electronic Range Control (ERC) Replace ERC (Electronic Range Control/Clock) F9 Door lock circuit Check wiring and test operation of door lock switch WHIRLPOOL
Range/Stove Oven Fault Codes, Common
Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair Digit Failure Code2 F1 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display reappears - replace control board F1 Safety flip flop Replace board F1 Shorted keypad Replace keypad F3 Oven temperature sensor opened Replace oven temperature sensor F2 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Check door/latch switch Replace switch if defective 4 Digit Failure Code F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace board F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor opened Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace switch if defective

Lets try to reset the controls by turning all pwer to the range off.

Have you tried unplugging the range and then plugging it back in? If it is electric remember it is 220 volt so please use caution.

If this does not work, check your breaker box. The range should be on a breaker by itself. When you locate it, Flip it off for a few minutes and then flip it back on. Again always use caution when doing anything with electrical service. Be sure that you are standing in a dry place, etc.

If a reset of the power does not turn the timer off, please get back to me with the exact details of name/model number and type of range (gas or electric)

I don't know where you live so I don't know the regulations in your area.Was the home inspected before you purchased it? The inspector should have inspected the appliances to make sure they were working properly. If this appliance cannot be easily fixed. I would call the realtor who sold you the house and complain.

give me your model number and i'll tell you where its is  usually if its a built in ove its in the bac k so you got to pull it out a little lean it on something or one person hold it up and you take off the sheet metal cover and you'll see a thermostat back there
some thermostats have a reset button but if yo give me the model number i'll help you out also make sure you have 110 volts on each leg of the wall outlet where the oven is plugged in

First you need to check if a supply is available to the machine. The safest way to do this is with a non-contact voltage detector. You can get one for around £10. (Also called volt sniffers by some) If you have an electrical supply to the machine I would call for service, use yell.com to contact your most local cooker engineer. If there is no supply you need to check back at your fuseboard to find out why.Have you reset all the trips?. Is there a spur with a fuse in it between the cooker and the fuse box?

flip breaker off then turn back on after a few min.see if that resets panel.if not you will need to call and have the control module replaced.

There is another fuse or circuit breaker inside the range. House fuse is at least 50 amps which would be way too large for 110 volt things. Your instructions will tell you where it is. Frigidaire used to hide it under one of the burners. I don't know where it is on a Viking.