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There is no flow rating because it would depend on too many factors. What you do need to check is the float valve. The water valve is opening and closing like it should be but the reservoir is filling too much.
get a humidity gauge from radio shack for about 20 bucks. thats the only way to tell. or pay a service compant tocome out for probaby a 100 bucks to tell you what the humidity level is in your home. id get the $20 one a the shack
The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.
Humidifiers are made from a very durable heat resistant plastic. If it melted or warped you have a serious overheating problem. That plenum should not get over 140 to 155 degrees. If this furnace is running to hot it could stress and crack your heat exchanger. Install a good carbon monoxide detector in your home!!!! Check your filters. Check your airflow. Make sure all registers in the house are open. Is your blower speed set high enough? If this furnace is operating to hot it is definitely worth the investment to have a pro look at it before you replace the humidifier.
Is this overheating problem new? Or was this something thar happened years ago and may have since been solved But you are just now noticing the heat damege that was caused.
Goog luck
HVAC Teacher
you may try running your blower 100% of the time.this should allow the humidifier to stay on even when your not heating. once the humidity level gets to where you want it, you may be able to put the fan selector back to auto. also you mentioned you have a variable blower. this is great if it is set up to run at approx. 20% fan speed when it is not heating or cooling. at 20% you can circulate enough air through the house to humidify without being able to hear the noise of the blower. it will really increase the comfort level of the house if you tend to have hot and cool spots. if it was not set up this way, contact the installer and ask if they can do this for you.
if you are constantly heating the house, your heter element in the furnace is drawing in and drying out the air you are humidifying. Heat the house, and then turn on the humidifier while the heater is not running. Is your humidifier able to do your entire house (whole house) or just a small room unit?
I'm no expert, but those who are seem to agree that the first thing to check is your evaporator panel. Aprilaire recommends replacing it annually--so if you haven't replaced it recently, that would be the first step to take. Next, check the power supply to your Aprilaire unit. Turn the humidistat to 0%, and then turn it slowly back toward 35% until you hear a click at the unit. If you don't hear a click, you'll want to check that the unit is in fact getting electric power (you may want to get an electrician or furnace tech to do this). If you do hear the click, the next thing to check is whether you have sufficient water flow to your Aprilaire unit. On mine, I had to adjust my water supply saddle valve, as well as the inline valve on the discharge side of the solenoid (see prior post from this morning)--and this seemed to clear the lines and restore water flow. Once you achieve proper water flow, you will probably want to set your humidistat at 35% for winter temps of around 20 degrees F--but be sure to adjust it downward for colder weather. Comments, anyone?
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