At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
We have a Kenmore Front Loader Elite 2005 Washer and got the FdL error also. Called the repair guy and he played with the wiring for the door locking mechanism and got it to work twice but when I tried it (just before I wrote him the check) it didn't work. His solution and it may be the right one is to order a new computer/brain and door locking mechanism. This just happened and I told him I would get back to him on whether to order the parts. Meanwhile, I unplugged and re-plugged the wiring to the "brain" located just under the top panel in posteriorly and it worked (for now). I also tightened the latch on the door (don't know if that is part of problem but it was slightly loose). My question is do you think that since this is an intermittent problem (not sure I really fixed it yet) that it is more likely a connection problem as opposed to the "motherboard" which I would think would either work or not (but I'm not sure that is true or accurate)? Is there an Electrical Engineer in the house?
We have a Kenmore Front Loader Elite 2005 Washer and got the FdL error also. Called the repair guy and he played with the wiring for the door locking mechanism and got it to work twice but when I tried it (just before I wrote him the check) it didn't work. His solution and it may be the right one is to order a new computer/brain and door locking mechanism. This just happened and I told him I would get back to him on whether to order the parts. Meanwhile, I unplugged and re-plugged the wiring to the "brain" located just under the top panel in posteriorly and it worked (for now). I also tightened the latch on the door (don't know if that is part of problem but it was slightly loose). My question is do you think that since this is an intermittent problem (not sure I really fixed it yet) that it is more likely a connection problem as opposed to the "motherboard" which I would think would either work or not (but I'm not sure that is true or accurate)? Is there an Electrical Engineer in the house?
My FDL signal came on. Called a repairman, he said the Door Lock assembly needed to be replaced. Said he would charge me $287.00 to do it. He replaced it tried the machine and the FDL signal came back on????? So he then went out to read his manual...He came back and said the hinge needed replaced and he could do that for another $50.00. I said well replace my Door Lock Assembly because apparently it isn't bad..I told him I would hold off on the repair til I spoke with my husband. he charged me $89 and left. The washer worked ok (as long as I didn't overload it) however I did a load today and the FDL Signal came on. I unplugged the washer for 30 minutes ran it and it seemed fine??? I don't Know what to do... Any suggestions would be appreciated! I am tired of fighting this machine daily.My FDL signal came on. Called a repairman, he said the Door Lock assembly needed to be replaced. Said he would charge me $287.00 to do it. He replaced it tried the machine and the FDL signal came back on????? So he then went out to read his manual...He came back and said the hinge needed replaced and he could do that for another $50.00. I said well replace my Door Lock Assembly because apparently it isn't bad..I told him I would hold off on the repair til I spoke with my husband. he charged me $89 and left. The washer worked ok (as long as I didn't overload it) however I did a load today and the FDL Signal came on. I unplugged the washer for 30 minutes ran it and it seemed fine??? I don't Know what to do... Any suggestions would be appreciated! I am tired of fighting this machine daily.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The F33 code can indicate a bad pump or a problem with the wiring either at the pump or the CCU (central control unit), or the wiring harness itself. Before you replaced the pump, did you test the resistance in the wiring harness?
Unplug the washer and use an Ohmeter (VOM) to test. See http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wtftddqbdtwbdkrxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/tgdkbwkswxfddbwsbdbxtbgtgwftb/1/1303472/5961857/image49983img-or.gif for the schematics of the wiring for the pump on the CCU. To access the CCU, you need to remove a few screws on the back of the top panel. You remove the lower service panel on the front of the washer to access the pump. The wiring should read 12.3 ohms at the CCU. If you get a reading of infinity (open), check the pump. If the leads to the pump motor give a resistance of 12.3 ohms, then the wiring harness should probably be replaced. If the circuit to the pump is fine and the error persists, then the CCU is faulty and needs to be replaced.
I hope this helps. If you add a comment with the specific model of your washer, I may be able to give additional suggestions.
This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model front loading washers. If you experience a problem where the door becomes jammed and will not unlock or open, here's an easy way to gain access inside your washer WITHOUT calling the repairman.
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier. 2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose. 3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located. 4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see "Fdl" "DLE" or "Fdu" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Total repair time < 5 minutes
1. Unplug washer
2. Remove top from washer using 9/32" socket wrench (3 screws in back)
3. Locate the white connector panel on back
4. Remove 3rd connector from right in the connector panel
(1st from right has 2 wires in it, 2nd from right has 2 wires in it, 3rd from right as 4 wires in it -- all of the wires into my connectors are pink)
To remove, push down on top 2 pins then pull out
5. Put the connector back in.
6. Replug in washer and watch it work.
7. Get a sharpie an mark "F/DL" above the connector -- you will be glad you did
8. Put top back on
9. Comment here that "it fixed it for me"
10. Do something nice for someone today -- even just a smile for someone looking down.
I have to do this once every 9 months with my heavily used washer (I have 4 kids).
Hope this works for you.
REplace your MCU. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of
the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing
from the rear with the back panel removed).The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem. Go onto kenmore.com and find your right washing machine and replace the part yourself. First try and take the wiring harness off and then reconnect it and see if the error code goes away if it doesnt then replace the part. Please Rate. Thank you
121 MINUTES USUALLY DRAIN CYCLE PLZ REMOVE 3 BOTTOM PANEL SCREWS 7 MM SCREWS, TO OPEN DOOR SLIDE RIGHT HAND TOWARDS DOOR LOCK ,THERE WILL BE A SMALL LEVER TOO PULL DOWN ,NOW ITS OPEN,,, SINCE U HAVE BOTTOM PANEL OFF PUMP IS RIGHT IN FRONT REMOVE PLASTIC HOUSING CLOCKWISE ,,,REMEMEBER HOLD 3 GALLONS OF WATER STILL ,HAVE BUCKET READY ,NOW CLEAN OUT PUMP AND DEBRIS ,, CLOSE IT UP SHOULD BE FINE NO MORE PROBLEMS ,,,,,
To answer your question, yes, you should be able to check the wiring by removing the top panel. The top panel comes off by removing the three torx screws in the year of the washer that hold the top panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide towards the back, then lift off. I hope this answers your question. If your require additional assistance, pease let me know.
If sound like a lid switch issue.
Open the top of the washer to get an access to the lid switch(located near the doorframe).
Look for a loose wire or a broken switch. In case there is no loose wire or broken switch, you should replace the switch.
Good luck!
We have a Kenmore Front Loader Elite 2005 Washer and got the FdL error also. Called the repair guy and he played with the wiring for the door locking mechanism and got it to work twice but when I tried it (just before I wrote him the check) it didn't work. His solution and it may be the right one is to order a new computer/brain and door locking mechanism. This just happened and I told him I would get back to him on whether to order the parts. Meanwhile, I unplugged and re-plugged the wiring to the "brain" located just under the top panel in posteriorly and it worked (for now). I also tightened the latch on the door (don't know if that is part of problem but it was slightly loose). My question is do you think that since this is an intermittent problem (not sure I really fixed it yet) that it is more likely a connection problem as opposed to the "motherboard" which I would think would either work or not (but I'm not sure that is true or accurate)? Is there an Electrical Engineer in the house?
My FDL signal came on. Called a repairman, he said the Door Lock assembly needed to be replaced. Said he would charge me $287.00 to do it. He replaced it tried the machine and the FDL signal came back on????? So he then went out to read his manual...He came back and said the hinge needed replaced and he could do that for another $50.00. I said well replace my Door Lock Assembly because apparently it isn't bad..I told him I would hold off on the repair til I spoke with my husband. he charged me $89 and left. The washer worked ok (as long as I didn't overload it) however I did a load today and the FDL Signal came on. I unplugged the washer for 30 minutes ran it and it seemed fine??? I don't Know what to do... Any suggestions would be appreciated! I am tired of fighting this machine daily.
×