There are no pulleys on the front derailleur. Only the Rear derailleur has pulleys.
The Front derailleur consists of two plates that work the front gears (chainrings)
The Rear derailleur consists of a long arm with 2 pulleys to wrap the chain while shifting the rear gears (cassette).
Pulleys range from $10- a pair to $75-. Your local bike shop should have a suitable replacement set of pulleys, depending on the model of your derailleur it is sometimes less expensive to just replace the whole unit.
Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.
Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)
Closeup of setting the limiting screw. Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works). Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw. Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.
Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.
Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied. Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.
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