I've cleaned the lint traps, checked the circut breaker - Help! Dryer runs but no heat. Vent pipe to outside very blocked. Cleaned vent. have about 9k Ohms across heating element, Thermal Fuse on Lint Duct Assembly is not open reads zero ohms across Thermal Fuse. Suspect Thermal Cutoff or Thermostat on Heater Box? Suspect Heater Element? Suspect Thermister on Lint Duct Assembly? Looking for guidence.
I would check the heating element for continuity around 1200 ohms but if its closed and gives u a reading u should still be ok. as for ur thermostats the thermal cut off 0 ohms is ok as long as it does not read infinity or open circuit? CHECK THE CYCLING AND THE HI LIMIT thermostats also. Another thing to consider is , is the machine getting a full 220 at the terminal may need to check for votage from the outlet and to the machine. If u get say only 110 you will have enough to run the machine but not enough to run the heater which uses a full 220 volts. earlier u said something bout ur heating testing ok ? you did get an ohm reading?
It sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded
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are you getting a error code at all E1,E2 or E3?
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I have a model #LGR5636GQ1 that will not heat. I cleaned out all the dryer vents and suspected it was the dryer igniter since it did not glow through the peep hole. That did not fix it. I then got out the voltage meter and found that thermal fuse was bad and replaced it. Still not luck. I check for continuity on the cycling thermostat, flame sensor and high limit thermostat. All had continuity. I suspect maybe the gas solenoid valves but since the igniter won't glow, why replace them. Could there be something I have missed?
it tumbles but no heat tested thermal fuses and they are good but heater element is not
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Runs past it's time wires are good connections good duct work clear I'm getting ohm readings good red wires no ohms mov harness no ohms .
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