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14.2.2 To Make a Diagnosis1 Timer LED starts to blink and the unit automatically stops the operation.
2 Press the CHECK button on the remote control continuously for 5 seconds.
3 "- -" will be displayed on the remote control display.
Note: Display only for "- -" (No signal transmission, no receiving sound and no Power LED blinking)
4 Press the TIMER ? or ? button on the remote control. The code "H00" (no abnormality) will be displayed
and signal will be transmit to the main unit.
5 Each press of the button (? or ?) will increase error code
number and transmit error code signal to the main unit.
6 When the latest abnormality code on the main unit and
code transmitted from the remote control are matched,
Power LED will light up for 30 seconds and a "beep" sound
(continuously for 4 seconds) will be heard. If no codes are
matched, Power LED will light up for 0.5 seconds and no
sound will be heard.
7 The breakdown diagnosis mode will be canceled unless
pressing the CHECK button continuously for 5 seconds or
operating the unit for 30 seconds.
8 The LED will be off if the unit is turned off or the RESET
button on the main unit is pressed.
Diagnosis
display
Abnormality / Protection control
Abnormality
Judgement
Emergency operation
Primary location to verify
H00
No abnormality detected
-
Normal operation
H11
Indoor / Outdoor abnormal communica
tion
> 1 min after starting
operation
Indoor fan operation
only
• Internal / external cable connections
• Indoor / Outdoor PCB
H14
Indoor intake air temperature sensor
abnormality
Continue for 5 sec.
-
• Intake air temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected)
H15
Outdoor compressor temperature sensor
abnormality
Continue for 5 sec.
-
• Compressor temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected)
H16
Outdoor Current Transformer open cir
cuit
-
-
• Outdoor PCB
• IPM (Power transistor) module
H19
Indoor fan motor mechanism locked
7 times occurance
continuously
-
• Indoor PCB
• Fan motor
H23
Indoor heat exchanger temperature sen
sor abnormality
Continue for 5 sec.
O
(Cooling only)
• Heat exchanger temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected)
H24
Indoor heat exchanger temperature sen
sor 2 abnormality
Continue for 5 sec.
-
• Heat exchanger temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected)
H27
Outdoor intake air temperature sensor
abnormality
Continue for 5 sec.
O
• Outdoor temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected)
H28
Outdoor heat exchanger temperature
sensor abnormality
Continue for 5 sec.
O
• Outdoor heat exchanger temperature
sensor (detective or disconnected)
H30
Outdoor discharge air temperature sen
sor abnormality
Continue for 5 sec.
-
• Outdoor temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected)
H33
Indoor / Outdoor wrong connection
-
-
• Indoor / Outdoor supply voltage
H38
Indoor / Outdoor mismatch (brand code)
H50
Ventilation motor abnormality
7 times occurance
continuously
-
• Indoor PCB
• Ventilation motor
H51
Nozzle lock abnormality
2 times occurance
continuously
-
• Nozzle
H52
Limit switch abnormality
-
-
• Indoor PCB
H97
Outdoor fan motor mechanism locked
2 times occurance
within 30 minutes
-
• Indoor PCB
• Fan motor
H98
Indoor high pressure protection
-
-
• Air filter dirty
• Air circulation short circuit
H99
Indoor heat exchanger anti-freezing pro
tection
-
-
• Insufficient refrigerant
• Air filter dirty
F11
Cooling / Heating cycle changeover
abnormality
4 times occurance
within 30 minutes
-
• 4-way valve
• V-coil
F90
PFC control
4 times occurance
within 10 minutes
-
• Voltage at PFC
F91
Refrigerantion cycle abnormality
2 times occurance
within 20 minutes
-
• No refrigerant
(3-way valve is closed)
F93
Compressor rotation failure
4 times occurance
within 20 minutes
-
• Compressor
F95
Cool high pressure protection
4 times occurance
within 20 minutes
-
• Outdoor refrigerant circuit
F96
IPM (power transistor) overheating pro
tection
4 times occurance
within 30 minutes
-
• Excess refrigerant
• Improper heat radiation
• IPM (Power transistor)
F97
Outdoor compressor overheating protec
tion
4 times occurance
within 10 minutes
-
• Insufficient refrigerant
• Compressor
F98
Total running current protection
3 times occurance
within 20 minutes
-
• Excess refrigerant
• Improper heat radiation
F99
Outdoor Direct Current (DC) peak detec
tion
7 times occurance
continuously
-
• Outdoor PCB
• IPM (Power transistor)
• Compressor
Note:
"O" - Frequency measured and fan speed fixed.
The memory data of error code is erased when the power supply is cut off, or press the Auto Switch until "beep" sound heard following by pressing the "CHECK" button at remote controller.
Although operation forced to stop when abnormality detected, emergency operation is possible for certain errors (refer to Error Codes Table) by using remote controller or Auto Switch at indoor unit. However, the remote controller signal receiving sound is changed from one "beep" to four "beep" sounds.
I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.
is green wire from thermostat or from outdoor. retrace and change as needed. If not Goodman has a tech support number you can call while looking at unit.
Assuming this is a heat pump I'm guessing you have a bad temp sensor. Your outdoor fan is likely controlled by a temp sensor so it only runs as needed during heating. Fan not coming on and compressor still needs cooled therefore compressor protection kicking in?????
Problem #1:Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem
could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. If
your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new
motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard
to turn then you probably need a new motor.
Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied
to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like
the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then
all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will
not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because
the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then
because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The
internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning
up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some
compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some
compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my
customer that they need a new compressor . Many
times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new
compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They
have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems.
The indoor fan will not run at normal fan speed untill the indoor coil reaches 32oC. This is done so that a cold draught is not felt when outdoor unit is not running. Check to make sure the outdoor unit is operating. If the outdoor fan is running but there is no indoor fan after 5 mins then you must likely have a gas issue or a fault compressor circuit.
Hi, Just to to let you know, I am a contractor for heating and air conditioning. You have a split system heat pump it sounds like to me. If you have the indoor unit and an outdoor unit, this is a split. If the blower is running but not getting cold air, there could be several problems that would cause this. The service tech should be able to troubleshoot and find the problem in 1 hour or less. Depending on who you call, you are looking at anywhere from $65.00 to $85.00 per hour. Some places also charge you a travel or truck charge of $20.00, try and stay away from them. It will be a 1 hour minimum and in 1/4 hours there after. It could be a quick fix, breaker, fuse, or a serious problem as a compressor. This is what you are looking at. If you do have a split system and the outdoor unit is not on, check the breakers and fuses before you call any one. This may save you many $$$$$!! If you have a system that is all in one or a package unit and the blower comes on, make sure the outdoor fan is running ( condenser fan motor ) and listen to see if you can hear the compressor running. If you do have a split unit, go to the outdoor unit and see if the fan is running and compressor also. If not, check you're power supply. You may get lucky. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
Hi; I need more info. Do You mean the outdoor unit is stoping and starting while running in a call for heat by the tstat. When heat pumps run if the temperature out side reaches low enough the outside unit will go into a defrost cycle to remove any build up of frost or ice. If the outdoor unit has a dirty coil or a low freon issue this also can trick the unit into a premature defrost cycle. Now here is another scenerio.If Your ac is running in the cool mode and stops prematurly there could be several problems. Low freon level, faulty fan motor causing the compressor to go into a freon bypass mode wich sounds very spewy. Please tell me if you are in heat mode.. Also how old is the unit. Sometimes a severly worn control contactor can disallow all the needed voltage to cross over to Your fan motor and compressor. Watch unit while its acting up... Also when unit goes into a sceduled defrost the fan will stop this is normal and will restart when the unit comes out off defrost You will here this big swoosh sound. Thats the freon being redirected back into the heating path.Let me know...alpharome416
Is it noisy always when running in heat or only for intermittant periods? Depending on where you live every 45-90 minutes of run time the heat pump goes into a cycle called defrost. The fan on the outdoor unit will shut off. the compressor will continue to run but in actually cool mode. this heats the outdoor coil and allows any frost or ice that is built up on the outdoor coil to melt. The compressor can get pretty loud in this mode and you may actually see steam coming off of the unit. This is normal. However if it is noisy all of time in heat check/clean your coils. If this doesn't remedy it have your refrigerant charge checked by a NATE certified Service Technician. Good luck.
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