Kenmore automatic washer Model 110.20692000. I need to replace the lid switch. How do I get the top off, back off? Please provide detailed instructions for the removal and placement of the lid switch. Thanks.

If you are referring to the exterior washer cabinet, the following link explains how to remove the cabinet, so you can access the interior components:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3631789-washer_case_removal_whirlpool_top

Read through the steps provided, thoroughly. The procedure is much easier than it looks.

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Kenmore), a no spin problem can have several causes. Most commonly, this is caused by either a lid switch malfunction or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how you can diagnose the problem and repair it yourself:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3965207-whirlpool_top_loader_no_spin_problem

Read through the link provided and let me know if you have any questions. I have included parts resources and instructions on how to replace each part as well.

If you have questions, please post back with a complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

The following link explains step-by-step how to replace a lid switch on a Kenmore top loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: Kenmore is manufactured by Whirlpool so these instructions will apply.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDetails.pd?modelNumber=11020722990&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=0582&brandDeion=KENMORE&modelName=AUTOMATIC-WASHER

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf



It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

Check your lid switch. The symptoms of your washer stopping at the rinse cycle is a commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare. If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number if different from the one listed. I hope this information is helpful to you.

NOTE: "110" is not the model number. This is the prefix on the model number that identifies the manufacturer of your washer. 110 indicates the washer was manufactured by Whirlpool.

Sometimes on these you need to open the lid, remove the screws there first, then take the screws off the back. Try that.

This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the lid switch is mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If your washer is not configured in this manner, please post back with your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) so I can confirm how your washer IS configured.

I can also provide information on how to replace a lid switch and give advice on where to purchase a replacement (if needed).

This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the lid switch is mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. The humming sound you hear when the lid is closed may just be the timer motor running. If your washer is not configured in this manner, please post back with your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) so I can confirm how your washer IS configured. I hope this helps you.

If you determine that your lid switch is broken, please let me know and I will provide you with the steps necessary to repair it yourself (simple repair job). I can also give advice on where to purchase a replacement.

The following link will explain:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

I hope this helps you. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.

Hello jafarrell
What is the exact model # ?
This was the part number!!


You said, you need a diagram of the Kenmore top loading washer, model 20432 lid switch.
This is a Kenmore part # you supplied, so here is where you can get it from Kenmore.


Part # 20432 lid switch as you supplied in our communications!.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrievePartActionHome!search.action?productGroup=N%2FA&partNumber=20432&pop=flush


Thank you for using Fixya.
Huuum
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Check your lid switch. If the lid switch is not making proper contact, or is broken, the washer will fill, agitate (some model washers won't), then just stop when it gets to the spin cycle. If this is what you are experiencing, then this could be a quick and easy repair for you.

Try opening an closing the lid. If you don't hear a clicking noise when the lid closes, the lid switch may be bad or loose. It is mounted under the opening of the tub rim on the right-hand side and held in place with two screws. Make sure the lid strike ( a small plastic piece) is present on the lid as well. This closes the switch contacts when the lid closes. If the lid switch does not function, the washer will not complete a wash cycle.

If the determine the switch and/or lid strike is broken, searspartsdirect.com carries the parts need. Just type in the model number you provided and you will find the lid switch under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item #11 (part #3949238). The Lid Strike is under the same heading as item #20 (part #350733).

If you need advice on how to replace the lid switch please post back and let me know.

If I'm off the mark here, please post back with comments and give me a little more elaboration on what your washer is doing or not doing.

PS You do not need to drain the tub to replace the switch. If you wish to drain it, however, and want to by-pass the lid switch, I can give you instructions on how to do this as well.